Thread: Advice needed...

[QUOTE=There are a couple of other Landy specialists in SA though...anyone in SA???...right??? [/QUOTE]

My personal recommendation, for what it's worth, would be to get in touch with Peter Brown, PCB Landrover,

PCB Independent Landrover Specialists - Servicing, Repairs, Modifications & Spare Parts

Peter has always been very helpful, even when answering 'emergency calls' from remote places in central Australia. He and his small team knows their stuff and while they are at Nth Plympton and therefore a little further from you it seems, from my experience they do a great job. I've had my earlier D2a and now my D4 serviced with PCB. Excellent service. They are also so a major sponsor of the annual South Australian Land Rover Show at Blinman every Easter, so put back into the LR community in SA.

I'd also check the seals on the clutch master/slave cylinders first, before heading down the much more expensive job of replacing clutches and flywheels, particularly on a low mileage vehicle like you have.

Good Luck
Craig

my flywheel cost me $90 i think to have machined when i did the clutch myself. put a valeo HD clutch in there. new slave cylinder. didn't cost me much at all. if there is no major cracking on it then i don't see why you would replace it. just get it machined. while he is there get the rear main seal done and the gearbox seal. the little rod that pushes your clutch fork could just have slipped or your fork was not a HD one with the steel plate welded on the back of where your rod goes. they used to eventually punch a hole through your fork. so the HD version they welded some steel plate to the other end to strengthen it.

Your symptoms suggest that it is a problem with the clutch hydraulics first and foremost. This is a job that can be completed without pulling the gearbox or replacing the clutch. Get someone to rule this out first.

How is the level in the clutch fluid? The master cylinder can fail so that the fluid passes the seals so that the pedal flops about without leaking fluid.

Rule out the hydraulics first before getting stuck into the more expensive parts.

Originally Posted by Simeon

Rule out the hydraulics first before getting stuck into the more expensive parts.

I had exactly the same symptom as the OP with my Defender years ago.
Removed the slave cylinder and got covered in brake fluid from the bell housing. Fitted a seal kit costing a few dollars and I was back in action.

It was still under secondhand warranty from the dealer, phoned them up and was told 'bring it in and we'll have a look'. I asked how I was going to do this without a clutch and suggested a tilt tray at their expense. After some negotiations they provided a new slave cylinder but delivery was a couple of days..... by then I'd fixed it and the new slave went into stock.

The clutch fork is a known weak area but as suggested, check the hydraulics first.


Colin