i would check that the return spring in the master cylinder has,nt snapped. It you pull the pedal up do you get and pedal pressure?
i would check that the return spring in the master cylinder has,nt snapped. It you pull the pedal up do you get and pedal pressure?
I am sure there are more than a few nice people here who will help you with improving performance on a 300?Tdi![]()
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.![]()
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
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No, not quite so. There's a bit more to it than being sold in 1999. The last D1s may have been BUILT in 1998 but some of them (mine included) have a January 1999 compliance plate. I've no idea how that comes to be, but the compliance plate speaks for itself. I wonder if it was the importers who put the compliance plate on, when the vehicles finally got here? Perhaps someone else will be able to explain the time-lag.
Compliance is just that .. compliance with Aussie Rulz! .. not build date!
Read my reply on the VIN number.
Look for the last 6 digits, and just prior to those last 6 digits are the final two letters .. possibly WA on your '99 compliance plated D1.
W is the year model, A = made in Solihul(England) .. as opposed to South Africa(V) or Worldwide CKD(F)
So the last section of your VIN will read something like WA123456 if made in the UK in '97-98.
D2's will use an X at that point in VIN number for that sequence, but most if not all in Aus will be a Y in place of that
Mine was 'complianced' in 4/99 but was still built in '98.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
I've done loads of TDi clutches, well I reckon maybe 6? On defenders and discos.
As said, check the hydraulics first. Pull the slave cylinder out, you will be able to see what the push rod is doing, there are a few things in the bell housing that can cause no clutch and foot to the floor, some likely some less so.
Now, a proper clutch job will be best to have:
* friction plate
* pressure cover
* release bearing
* HD clutch fork
* some of the plastic retainy things & ziplocks
* spigot bushing
For the effort of removing the box I wouldn't count any of that as spare.
You may also want to do the rear crank seal - though if not leaking it's a bit of a debate on whether to mess with it.
Flywheel refacing - yea, heard of it.... Unless you find really bad gouges, then it is just your wallet being gouged.
Now, once you replace all of that you have about a 50% chance of the hydraulic system karking it, extra pressure etc. is what I always put it down to, but a lot of times after a new clutch I find the slave or master goes. And when you replace one of those the other tends to go (it was common enough I used to pretty much buy both at the same time and replace).
Doing a clutch on the disco is not hard to do at home, I've usually gone via an engine crane in the cabin through the gearstick hole. If you are a beast you can get it done in a morning (never managed it myself, usually a day or two).
You can also use a jack underneath with an adapter.
If you don't have or can't borrow either of those you are looking at a spend of about $300.
Tips for fitting:
* align the friction plate, you are SOL if it's off as you'll never get the bugger back in
* you need to get the box level to close it up, guide rails in engine side can help. Depends on the transfer box mounts on how much of a pain this can be.
I'm down Lonsdale a few times a week, if you want I can check what might be wrong. I've got a shagged arm at the moment though which means I really can't help on doing a box (Jack hammers doing house work really messed it up).
I know that it costs a lot of money to repair them if something goes wrong but my old 1997 Discovery 1 is still going strong with 338,000 km on the clock.I had the same problem at Cape Levique last year. Clutch just went to the floor & stayed there. I got back to Broome by putting the transfer box to neutral, selected my gear & crunched the transfer box back into high & limped back to Broome in 3rd gear. It was the fork which had disintegrated & it cost me $2500 to have it repaired up there. I only paid $7000 for the car but I would not part with it because it is so reliable & I trust it to go anywhere I want to go. I am currently planning another trip up the Gibb River road later this year. I have spent more than the actual cost I paid for it but most of this is age related & will probably happen to other vehicles as they age. I can honestly say that my old boy is the best vehicle I have ever owned & if you persevere with them they will almost last forever. If you go for another you will only be buying other people's problems. My advice, sort out the problems on the one you have & you will be rewarded. Someone told me that over 60% of ALL Land Rovers ever built are still on the road. That tells me something! Good luck
If you go to www.lrdirect.com a clutch kit for 300tdi is AU$71.02 + AU$72.04 postage to W.A, I also live in Manjimup so they charge me an extra AU$25.34 for remote area surcharge and it only takes a week to get to me. Now the other thing I do when swapping the clutch is to take the engine out and not the Gearbox. I find it easier and quicker than trying to remove the gearbox and transfer box driveshafts and interior bits. Try suggesting that to your mechanic
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