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Thread: 300tdi Head Gasket

  1. #1
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    300tdi Head Gasket

    Unfortunately about 30km from home on the way back from Cooma my 300tdi head gasket decided it had had enough(still original with 300000Km+ on it).Does not look too difficult a job except there seem to be a number of different types of gaskets to get. Mine is the 3 hole one but cannot work out what type is best?Any opinions and are there any pit falls to look out for.
    Joe

  2. #2
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    Points from my experience doing the job:

    1) get a degree wheel for torquing head bolts
    2) clean block threads. I used an old head bolt and cut two vertical grooves in it, deburred it and then cleaned out the threads. Amazing what crap come out! I then used crc to get them really clean
    3) Buy NEW head bolts... amazing how much torque you put on when tightening, cant imagine how anyone would reuse them. I could actually see the bolt deformation when I had them out.
    4) Injectors - particularly number 3 can get stuck. I used plenty of diesel/brake clean/wd40 - to try and get them a little lubed before trying to screw them out. On my old head, one of the injectors was completely stuck and ripped the lowe case off the injector, leaving it in the hole. Check to make sure they all come out complete
    5) Take your time, make sure you have everything in hand (tools, components etc) - cant stress this enough. Rushing a job like this isnt a good idea!
    6) Do an oil/filter change after the job

    Lots of info on AULRO, especially from mechanics like justinc. All the best.

    Cheers,
    Carlos
    1994 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
    1996 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
    1963 Land Rover Series 2a 88
    Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3...BtsNIuTyGkAo5w
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  3. #3
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    Use an MLS gasket and make sure the block deck is clean, clean, clean.
    Methylethylketone (MEK) is probably best for this but be careful, it's bloody toxic.
    Don't use any sealer/adhesive on the gasket, lightly lube the bolts, I'm a believer in dedicated head bolt lube, e.g. ARP for consistency of tension.

    Obviously check the head for flatness, etc.

  4. #4
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    I would use an elring gasket if you are re using your head.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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  5. #5
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Use an MLS gasket and make sure the block deck is clean, clean, clean.
    Methylethylketone (MEK) is probably best for this but be careful, it's bloody toxic.
    Don't use any sealer/adhesive on the gasket, lightly lube the bolts, I'm a believer in dedicated head bolt lube, e.g. ARP for consistency of tension.

    Obviously check the head for flatness, etc.

    Obviously check the head for flatness, AND THE BLOCK. We had a customer that blew 3 Head gaskets in the same place, this was after after fitting a machined head , then a new head with same thing. Turned out block was out, he said he checked the block with a straight edge.


  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares View Post
    Obviously check the head for flatness, AND THE BLOCK. We had a customer that blew 3 Head gaskets in the same place, this was after after fitting a machined head , then a new head with same thing. Turned out block was out, he said he checked the block with a straight edge.
    Yep, I know of one block that 'settled' in the middle between 2 & 3 after being decked too!

  7. #7
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    Thanks for replies, have an idea of possible pit falls but clean and straight seem to be the main themes. However one question still confuses, as to type i.e which one of elring or MLS to use.
    Joe

  8. #8
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    Elring composite and complete cleanliness
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  9. #9
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    Read post #5. Contact Mario for ALL the parts you need. He and Heather only supply the best, they arrive quickly and he gives a discount to AULRO members off his already reasonable prices. Makes sure to ask for the injector return line hose assy, as it is almost certain to leak once it is disturbed, and it isn't expensive.

    It's a relatively simple job. Do you have RAVE? If not go to Dave's (Incisor) shop and get it: RAVE I CD

    How long since the timing belt was done? 'Cos you might as well do that while you are at it. Have a look at this:

    tdi300 timing belt.

    Dave's ( Blknight) tute is great. Unfortunately it has fallen foul of those morons at Photo****et. I have a copy of it somewhere which I will dig up if you choose to do the belt.

    Another tute of Blknight's is this, for refilling and bleeding the cooling system:

    the coke bottle cooling system fill.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
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  10. #10
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    Workshop manual helps. I think they tell you the max flatness tolerances, i forget now what it was. I think 5 thou but might be way off. I did mine a few years ago and created a thread when i was doing it. Look it up. There’s heaps of info on there. Go through your cooling system thoroughly. You don’t want to do all that work n have a half blocked radiator or half worn pump

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