Thread: Donk replacement

Hopefully not a cracked timing case or something, and it's just the seal.

I've never had a cracked timing case on any of my RV8's over the years, but it could have been cracked during the transportation of the engine(ie. from old car to where ever seller plonked it, to your trailer to your place).

Originally Posted by AK83

First thing I'd check(because you haven't mentioned it yet) is the oil filter.
Engine tipped forward, and if you left the oil filter on(as in the pic) then it still has oil in it.
I'd have thought when you got the motor from the bloke in Seaford, that it would have been drained of oil already before you moved it .. but again you haven't commented on that.
Also check the oil/filter/pump/hoses area for loosely fitted bolt/nuts/etc.

Other than those obvious and easy to see sources, my experience with the RV8(near on 20 or so) over many cars has been that the front main seal is the most likely source of oil leaks.

I had an oil leak coming from the front of my V8 in my D2a and I thought it would be the front main seal But it turned out to be a perished/hardened "O" ring on the blanking bolt for the oil pump that was leaking.

Originally Posted by trout1105

I had an oil leak coming from the front of my V8 in my D2a and I thought it would be the front main seal But it turned out to be a perished/hardened "O" ring on the blanking bolt for the oil pump that was leaking.

Now that would be a nice surprise. Although these crank seals dont look hard to replace while engine is out anyway.
Do i have to break the rear cap to get at the rear main or do they slip over the crank? Almost looks like that from my view currently.

I really should have prepped better. No engine stand and no engine crane are making this a harder job than expected hahahahahahah.

I think it just goes over the rear crank flange .. not sure.
I've never done one myself, but had on on my Rover P6 done about 35 years ago(by a mechanic).

Other than that very early V8(approx '71 or '72 model P6) .. I've never had a rear main seal leak.

My car is a 3.9 v8 with an auto.

To separate the 2 i was planning on keeping the converter connected to the engine and pulling it that way leaving the box/tc in car.

I just watched a video of a landrover guy taking out a v8 from a D2 and he disconnected the converter before removal leaving converter on the box.

Whats the best method here please?

Originally Posted by DAMINK

My car is a 3.9 v8 with an auto.

To separate the 2 i was planning on keeping the converter connected to the engine and pulling it that way leaving the box/tc in car.

I just watched a video of a landrover guy taking out a v8 from a D2 and he disconnected the converter before removal leaving converter on the box.

Whats the best method here please?

Always undo the torque converter from the drive plate and leave it with the gearbox. If you do it the lazy way you'll spill oil everywhere and possibly wreck the front pump seal. On reassembly its absolutely essential the torque converter is fully engaged in all of its elements before refitting the engine. Measure the depth of the installed converter and compare it to the drive plate height and make sure there is at least 1-3mm clearance. Many people have found out the hard way what bad things the lazy method can do to their auto box.

Thankyou Bee Utey.

Yes mate i have been guilty many times of just keeping the converter on the motor. (not rovers holdens etc) This is my first rover transplant.
Normally if i pull them out straight there ok and during refitting i do the 3 clicks method. Where you turn the converter a bit and it clicks in 3 times until home.

Your advice is taken though, and i will do it properly. I guess i knew this was the wrong way and needed to be kicked in the bum.

Man this was supposed to be a quick engine swap, turning into a bloody mission.

Funny what you find when you take an engine out.

20180625_170031.jpg

Now im no expert but i think those engine engine mounts may be shot. Especially the one which has disconbobulated.
Both actually. There like squashed wagon wheels that have got too hot and the top bit has slid off the jam.