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Thread: Chasing a demon, D1 v8 won't start

  1. #1
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    Chasing a demon, D1 v8 won't start

    Gday everyone!

    Sorry for the massive post but it's been a mission.

    Last week after giving my engine bay a light wash I couldn't get the pig started.

    It's a 96 build 97 plate v8i ES auto with 370000kms full log book service well looked after.

    I started with the obvious drying the dissy and checking the fuses, still no joy. I had previously coated everything on the outside with inox and it was all dry already.

    I had all new plugs and leads so I swapped them all over no joy.

    Getting a decent blue spark so I pulled the plugs and checked for fuel. Cleaned fuel off them put them back in.

    Was I getting enough spark? I done the RAVE tests all good but I thought the module may be the culprit still.

    So I went looking for the ignition module which had already been moved next to the coil. So I went to my XF falcon which runs great. Took the Bosch rotor and ignition module (bim024) out and installed them. Getting a better spark so I swapped the coil also getting a 15mm blue ark now.

    Not even a pop when I spray easy start.

    Checked the inertia switch all good. Locked and unlocked it with the remote a few times for the hell of it you never know with the alarms they have lol.


    I read about how easy it is to break the shim inside the dissy when you take the rotor off.
    I had a tiny little bit of play in the rotor but I thought I'd rule it out anyway.
    So last night I pulled the dissy out(this is the 1st time I possibly could have mucked the timing up btw) stripped the dissy down and believe it or not the shim was intacked.
    I'm still going to tap the shaft and be done with it so it dosnt break in the future.

    I haven't put the dissy back in yet but I'm honestly stumped what else it could be.

    I was thinking maybe the spider box?

    So to recap

    *New plugs
    *New leads
    *3 fully charged batteries
    *Changed ignition module
    *Changed rotor
    *Changed connectors on coil
    *Changed coil
    *Good spark, good fuel, no pop
    *Hadn't played with the timing until pulling dizzy out but I'm having my doubts as the shim was intact so was advance springs and weights

    Like I said I'm chasing a demon here if anyone has any ideas it would be much appreciated. If rather rule everything out before surrendering to a mechanic.

    Thanks all
    Cheers

  2. #2
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    Sounds like it's well flooded. Have you tried flooring the accelerator pedal while cranking? I've done that a few times over the years following a weepy phone call about failure to start. Ten seconds or less of full throttle cranking and away it went.

    Also worth using a hair dryer to thoroughly blow dry the distributor, perhaps then blow it up the air intake while cranking it.

    And don't forget to set TDC by first principles, remove no.1 plug, feel for the piston crown, check the timing marks, then blow into the plug hole with a short length of rubber hose. Either side of TDC on the firing stroke the valves will be closed and no air will be able to be blown in by mouth. Fit the distributor so that the rotor button points to no.1 lead and the pickup in the dissy is aligned with one of the teeth of the star rotor.

  3. #3
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    Hey bee thanks for your response!

    I did floor it but not for 10 seconds I will definitely try that next. If it's that flooded I'm assuming I won't get any sort of pop out it. I had a sniff of the exhaust and it smells of unburnt fuel.

    Currently the dissy is on my dining table waiting to be drilled out. Like I said the circlip was still intact but I removed it anyway so I could get to the weights and give it all a good clean and do the screw mod to avoid any future problems.

    One thing I noticed is the dissy cap is missing it's O ring and sits slightly loose. It never had it before but could it affect it's operation other than allowing water to get in?

    It's absolutely bucketing down in vic so looks like it's just a day of research and modding the dissy. If it clears for an hour I'll definitely refit and try.

    Will post an update when I get out there

    Cheers

  4. #4
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    The dissy cap doesn't run an o-ring, and a loose cap is what happens when every part manufacturer sources the same low grade crap. Back in the day when V8's were regular visitors to my place, I used to buy genuine Lucas dissy caps. Then one day the newly supplied green Lucas box changed shape and the cap in it was a very loose fit. Never fitted any Lucas boxed ones after that.

  5. #5
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    Isn't part number 603446 an O ring for the distributor housing? As per the RAVE booklet? Step 10 sec 86 page 6 I was gonna upload a photo but it won't let me.

    Or is it the little O ring inside the distributor under the washer?
    Cheers

  6. #6
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    Nope it's for the shaft I looked a few other places online my bad. I always thought the Lucas dizzy had an o ring to stop the water getting in. I'll get out soon hopfully and put the dissy back in having crazy hail and all today.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    The dissy cap doesn't run an o-ring, and a loose cap is what happens when every part manufacturer sources the same low grade crap. Back in the day when V8's were regular visitors to my place, I used to buy genuine Lucas dissy caps. Then one day the newly supplied green Lucas box changed shape and the cap in it was a very loose fit. Never fitted any Lucas boxed ones after that.
    Hey bee when I reassemble the dissy should I put a couple of drops of oil on the weights? Your circlip tutorial is great the only thing I done was put a couple of flexible fridge magnets inside to catch all the swarf from dropping in.
    Cheers

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by LRJim View Post
    Hey bee when I reassemble the dissy should I put a couple of drops of oil on the weights? Your circlip tutorial is great the only thing I done was put a couple of flexible fridge magnets inside to catch all the swarf from dropping in.
    Cheers
    A dab of grease on the various weight contact points, then a couple of drops of oil on the shaft before you refit the advance mechanism. Oil on the various pivots should be OK too as the oil from the shaft should slowly migrate there. Two drops of oil under the rotor button is part of your annual maintenance.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    A dab of grease on the various weight contact points, then a couple of drops of oil on the shaft before you refit the advance mechanism. Oil on the various pivots should be OK too as the oil from the shaft should slowly migrate there. Two drops of oil under the rotor button is part of your annual maintenance.
    Much appreciated still havnt put the dissy in. I've rebuilt it but it's been too wet to reinstall. Will have to wait until tommorow now.

  10. #10
    DAMINK Guest
    Not a bad day in Vic today mate or so it seems here anyway. (Churchill)

    Seems you have an unusual problem. Disco not starting HAHAHAHAHA sorry man i kid but i do feel your pain.

    If you have spark at the plug then dizzy can be eliminated. Not entirely but enough to move forward. Spark, fuel and compression are the keys.


    Could the water some how have shorted something so the fuel injectors dont pulse? Looking to bee utey for answers as he is all knowing in this area......

    Do you have any immobilizer or after market alarm that could be playing up???


    Watch this thread with interest.

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