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Thread: freak T seals..?

  1. #1
    Discovery-94 Guest

    freak T seals..?

    300tdi engine
    T seals replaced with rear main seal 6 or so years ago
    flywheel housing is dry in drain hole, but sump has started leaking.
    took sump off and resealed with the sticky non hardening gunk, unfortunately leaking even worse now

    I found it a bit difficult to put the sump on as the T seals were weeping a tad of oil ( on the bottom where the sump conveniently bolts onto ) so I waited a few days and made sure to degrease before bolting the sump on, but something went wrong and I need to reseal again soon.
    Thought I might do the T seals while its off again if I can..

    Questions:
    What sealant should I use on the sump if I leave old T seals in (... previously used the black silicone stuff, this time the non hardening stuff)
    and could I remove rear main bearing cap in situ (engine & g/box) to replace the T seals, or will I get myself in even worse trouble with the rear main seal....?

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Logan,Queensland
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    permatex ultra black is what I think I use for the sump.
    I have done T seals on a new build, on an engine stand and it was not fun. I would not contemplate doing it in car as the rage would be overwhelming.
    In theory you should be able to remove the main cap and not disturb the rearmain seal, but there will be a gasket or silicone between the rearmain and the cap.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  3. #3
    Discovery-94 Guest
    Thank you - will have to try black permatex again...... it is literally pouring out oil at the moment
    otherwise it might do for an interesting T seal experiment... can't get any worse

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