Defender was approx 65mm between bump stops on the front
I think the Disco 1 and RRC was approx 50-55mm
Defender was approx 65mm between bump stops on the front
I think the Disco 1 and RRC was approx 50-55mm
Hence the different swivel/ stub position to achieve 3 degrees at static.Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
I am getting a good picture from all the info from all you guys.[thumbsupbig]
I think I will start at the easy and less expensive end of things (I hope). I will replace all the rubbers in the front steering and suspension with neoprene replacements. Maybe I had unnoticeable wear before the lift. The next question is which ones do I need to replace?
I will try this first before I look at the expensive cranked radius arms. They may have to wait a while.
I did notice a slight improvement after I fitted the new TerraFirma Steering Damper, but still it wanders.
Someone mentioned a lift in excess of 2" might be the problem. I did get a wheel arch measurement difference of 3 inch. (I ordered and paid for a 2" King Spring lift). This I measured from wheel arch to ground with same tyre and wheel combination. I thought that maybe my old springs must have been sagged 1'', so I still actually got a 2' lift compared to a new D1 or in other words, 'its original height'
I might mention I am running HiFly Muddies 245x75x16. A cheap tyre at $200 fitted, balanced and wheel aligned at Tyrepower. These are 30.47 inches.
I camel cut the rear arches and I do have my tyres touching a little on full lock. I hope there is enough info for you guys to make more educated comments and then I will have my work (and wallet) cut out for a while.
Thank you all and have a beaut day - Gerry
Quote:
Originally Posted by wedgetail37
He knows his stuff mate. I would be starting with those.Quote:
Originally Posted by rick1970
And they are the easiest and cheapest too.
DAMINK already mentioned the easy ones you can do easily yourself in an hour or two at home.Quote:
Originally Posted by wedgetail37
The radius arm bushes will need a good press, or a lot more work, to remove, but if you go polys they're easy to then refit(if you get a decent brand .. I've had good results with Nolathane, but many people recommend SuperPro)
Other possible reasons for wandering could be the rear trailing arms bushes too.
I had a lot of trouble with my RRC years back where small undulations made the car wander. Did all the usual mucking about with the front, never thought that the chassis bush end would cause so much wandering, but it did.
I assumed that worn rears would only be noticeable on more obvious bumps(ie. not smooth undulation type imperfections).
I reckon I changed at least 3 pairs of the rear trailing chassis bush due to wear, then finally found the old Rangie Spares modded rubber bush which made the world of difference. That also eventually wore out too, and I then went with Nolathanes all round(on the main rubbers).
I've been also looking to redo the suspension on my D1, more so coz the shocks on the car when I got it are just crap! way too hard, and no real advantage in being so. So my primary idea is I want something like bilsteins(had them before and they ride nice).
I went up to Les Richmond(formerly Rangie Spares years ago) and he explained some stuff.
1/. you don't NEED a caster correction kit for a 2" lift on a D1/2. You may want one, but he reckons you don't need it.
If all else is in good nic, then it will steer fine.
Don't measure the suspension(lift) from the wheel arches. Measure at the bump stop(ie. clearance from bump stop rubber to the bump stop on the axle).
I can't remember the values now, but I'm sure there is a ton of info somewhere on the net. such as here :D
So the info is available on this site, I measured the bump stop gap on my bog standard WA vin 98 300TDi - half fuel and standard front and rear bumpers - no extra weight at all.
I measured from the axle plate to the tip of the rubber bump stop on each axle
Front is 65mm
Rear is 110mm