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Thread: Spark plug gap and timing for v8 on gas

  1. #1
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    Spark plug gap and timing for v8 on gas

    Looking for information on spark plug gap and timing for a d1 v8 running on gas. Also doesn't like starting on gas when it's sat for more then a couple of hours. Any thought?

  2. #2
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    Spark plug gap 0.7mm to 0.8mm (0.028" to 0.032")

    Timing 10° BTDC at idle

    Starting, no idea, depends on loads of factors, eg what kind of gas system, how is the petrol assisted start relay rigged and adjusted, are you using throttle, how good condition is the gas converter etc.

  3. #3
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    I have my RV8 setup as Beeutey has suggested - works fine.

    Mine also has issues starting after a while when cold - do you have a gas primer button to squirt raw gas direct into the inlet manifold when starting on gas? I have one and it can still be problematic to start when cold - even with the primer. I also have an extra tube plumbed into the inlet manifold from the cabin - if it wont start, a squirt of "Start Ya Bastard" in this tube will fire the engine enough for it to suck gas through.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

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    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  4. #4
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    I use 'SYBd' on any long standing motors around here, but do I recall a post on here (?) that indicates that you can blow a piston top with the Ether content? Too much of a sudden shock I recall.
    Or did I read it else where?

  5. #5
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    Thanks for your help. I like the idea of the tube to the inlet manifold and some syb. I'll have have a look to see if there is a primer button for gas.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Felixthedisco View Post
    I'll have have a look to see if there is a primer button for gas.
    It will be on your dash or console somewhere if there is one.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  7. #7
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    I've never seen a primer button on an EFI vehicle. Usually starting problems are due to flooding or poorly set up petrol start relays. Then of course there are the vehicles where the petrol system has entirely failed and you need different techniques to get them going.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    I've never seen a primer button on an EFI vehicle.
    I must admit that given the age of the vehicle I just assumed the LPG was the old sucker LPG rather than injected LPG even though the petrol side is injected.

    I agree - if injected LPG no primer needed.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    I must admit that given the age of the vehicle I just assumed the LPG was the old sucker LPG rather than injected LPG even though the petrol side is injected.

    I agree - if injected LPG no primer needed.
    The LPG isn't usually injected on a D1 but the petrol is. A short, say 1/2 - 1 second of petrol injectors operating on startup removes the need for a separate primer button, and it'll work in the coldest climate. The problem is clueless fitters who bodge up the petrol start so it isn't optimum for any times other than the coldest starts and causes flooding.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Felixthedisco View Post
    Thanks for your help. I like the idea of the tube to the inlet manifold and some syb. I'll have have a look to see if there is a primer button for gas.
    I don't know how the Australian LPG systems work, but back in the days on my LPG cars back home (The Netherlands) the system blew a bit of LPG in when the ignition was turned on.
    I could start my car with minus 15 on LPG without any problems.

    Spark plug gap I would set on 0.5 mm, 0.7/0.8mm works well on new plugs, when the plugs get a bit older you want the gap a bit smaller.

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