Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: P Gasket

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    150
    Total Downloaded
    0

    P Gasket

    My P gasket is staring to weep, was wondering what type of sealer if any, do people use with the OEM type gasket? My go to one is usually the Permatex No 3 brush on sealant.
    Thanks Joe

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Stuart Town
    Posts
    844
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by trumpycam View Post
    My P gasket is staring to weep, was wondering what type of sealer if any, do people use with the OEM type gasket? My go to one is usually the Permatex No 3 brush on sealant.
    Thanks Joe
    I use permatex ultra blue. Put it on both sides of the gasket, tighten the bolts just finger tight so that it just starts to spread the goo, leave for 24 hours and then tighten to specified torque. It's really worth the wait...

    Tom.
    1996 Disco 1 300TDI manual - Lucille a cantankerous red head! :D
    1997 Disco 1 300TDI Auto - sold

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Crafers West South Australia
    Posts
    11,732
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Loctite Master Gasket 515 has always been my go-to goo for coolant gaskets, it doesn't ooze out into little snakes like silicone does and block up the coolant passage.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,203
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Have you tried to retighten the 3 long bolts first?
    I had a similar issue last summer, P-gasket was a 'lot of work', so I thought to try just re tighten(not much tho) the 3 long bolts first ... sorted!
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,279
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Loctite Master Gasket 515 has always been my go-to goo for coolant gaskets, it doesn't ooze out into little snakes like silicone does and block up the coolant passage.
    Ditto, but the real culprit with P gasket leaks is the front housing warping.

    You need to machine or draw file it flat, then the bloody thing stops leaking!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    150
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks for replies, will try easy one first and retighten bolts. Then go from there, problem only showed up after replacing water pump which was good and my water loss was due to head gasket failure.
    Joe

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,203
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by trumpycam View Post
    .... Then go from there, problem only showed up after replacing water pump which was good and my water loss was due to head gasket failure.
    Joe
    Yeah, same here(D1).
    my pump has the tiny leak from the weep hole, so changed.
    Did the long bolts to torque, but then found the small weep in the P gasket a few days later.

    Were your long bolts all rusted up(due to age).
    I got 3 new ones before I did mine up as mine were very rusted up from age.
    Didn't want to over tighten them in case they snapped.
    Didn't torque them when I re tightened them, just a bit of common sense using a 3/8th drive socket set, ie. get more feel than U would with a 1/2 drive.

    My idea was to give them just a bit more .. can't remember the torque value now .. but 25Nm I think it said in RAVE .. did that by hand, then added a bit more.
    If that first 'bit more' didn't stop the leak in the P gasket, I was going to give it one more shot of 'a bit more'.
    If that didn't stop the leak in the P gasket then I was going to replace the gasket.
    But it came up fine on the first round of re tightening them. Still have the P gasket just in case.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    150
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Arthur, my bolts were surprisingly good but had new timing belt put in ~20000km ago and mechanic said I should change P Gasket at same time, so he may have replaced bolts. Had a look and still need to remove a lot of stuff just to retighten so may just bit the bullet and go all the way, as have been in denial about it leaking for quit a while and chances of it stopping by retightening are now probably remote.
    Joe
    81 RRC 300Tdi Auto

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Kingsley, Perth
    Posts
    1,045
    Total Downloaded
    0
    one bit of advice given to me, when you put bolts back in, put locktite on threads and copper/silver/etc. grease on the smooth part of the bolt. i had a bit of a leak coming from mine after i did head but it stopped eventually. i think either had too much pressure coz i overfilled the cooling system, or it calcified a bit and formed a seal. either way, it's not leaking anymore.

    be very careful tightening bolts again. whoever did mine originally over-tightened them and when it came time to put them back the threads were like butter and just came loose. turned out that the person put wrong bolts back in too. they were too short. had to do a uni-coil on one of the holes.

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!