When I converted I just greased the bearing as normal and overfilled the diff which I think is what the majority do.
Hey all,
I've done another bearing today i noticed a slight rattle when changing my springs, though I'll grease and nip that up when I get back from the shops. By the time I got to the shops the bearing was shot, felt better on the way home the bearing welded to stub holding the wheel steady. I still havnt got the hub off, over it now I'll hit it again tommorow. My dust caps were split and fell off, with all this rain and my dirt driveway no wonder they **** themselves.
So I'm thinking about converting the wheel bearings to oil filled, I'm sick of packing bearings and oil filled seems all the rage.
Question is am I able to just drill and tap a hole in the drive flange and make a filler hole and plug like I've seen on some series? I'm pretty sure I had oil seals on the back of the rotor already, the ones with the circle spring in them? I'm gonna need new ones anyway I've hacked them out before they will definitely leak. I'd also have to get a metal dust cap and no doubt seal it on. But I think it all has advantages over filling through the the diff. Each wheel gets it's own supply of oil etc. I don't wanna debate what is better I'd just like to know if it's doable? Then you all can debate about it till your hearts content
Thanks heaps guys
Cheers Jim
When I converted I just greased the bearing as normal and overfilled the diff which I think is what the majority do.
Well it’s what I did on the old defer, grease is there to provide line until the oil finds it way over.
I’m sure others will pipe in with suggestions.
No need to drill and tap anything, just remove the axle tube seal and use an RTC3511 hub seal, buckets of oil on assembly and all I've done is jack one side up while filling the diff, then do the same on the other side to initially get oil to migrate down the axle tubes.
Oh, and Maxi drive flanges or equivalent.
I think mine were close to 14, maybe 15 years untouched and about 260,000km when I sold the Deefer.
with the maxi dive conversion I drill and tap 2x 3.. grub screws into the flange, add loctite 567 to the threads of the sealing cap and remove anything with the word seal (or acronym thereof) between the outer bearing and the diff side gear.
the flange grub screws get positioned at 3 or 9 and higher for filling and the stubs get filled first before filling the swivel housings then diff,
for draining the grub screws get positioned at 6 and higher followed by the swivel then diff.
for inspection both grub screws get removed and the wheel rotated until oil comes out one of the 2 holes.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
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It wasn't supposed to have anything to do with oil coming from the diff. I'm not trying to achieve that, I'm trying to see if it's possible to make individual oil filled hubs. The picture was just an example of an oil filled bearing separate from the diff.
I like the idea of oil filled bearings but I don't like the idea of having the diff and both bearings all running the same oil mainly because if 1 leaks you lose all your oil and a few other reasons.
Cheers Jim
Thank you to who ever moved this over for me!
Thank you to Mario and Heather for letting me pick up a goodie bag on a Sunday morning
Well the hub is stuck on, the inner race has welded itself to the stub. I've tried a bit of banging and clanging with no luck and sprayed some penetrating fluid in it but no luck. I've tried pulling each roller out so I can at least the the hub off, but I just can't get the bearing open enough to get then out. Any suggestions other than heat and slide hammer I don't have access to these. Heat I have an LPG torch bit I don't think it will get hot enough.
I was thinking of unbolting the whole swivel and trying on the bench or rig up a press.
Any thoughts?
Cheers Jim
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