Drain oil, pull the driveshafts out a few inches, discon prop, remove diff, clean up mating surfaces, reinstall with fresh gasket.
The poor 98 D1 V8 seems to be haemorrhaging at the moment - engine oil, power steering and rear diff oil pouring out! I've just sorted the power steering and now looking at the diff as it seems an easier fix than the engine oil leak...
I hope it would just be a leaking fill or drain plug but doesn't look that way to me - looks like its coming through the join between the differential and axel assembly - also looks like it's not the first time, that someone has smeared black silicone on the outside lower half to try to stop/reduce/prevent it previously:
So first question - is it just RTV silicone to seal this (like my D2a is) or does it have a gasket? Microcat seems to show a picture of a gasket in the parts breakdown diagram but doesn't have an actual listing or part number there:
Screen Shot 2019-01-16 at 9.58.07 am.png
If, it is a gasket, anyone able to please advise on the correct part number? Or is RTV silicone a suitable substitute?
Finally, I'm aware that the rear axels will need to be pulled in order to remove the differential assembly from the axel, but if left in place, is there enough freeplay to shift it off enough to clean up the join properly, apply the RTV silicone and retighten - is that an option? I assume if it's a gasket seal then has to all come off in order to fit the gasket though.
If the axels have to be pulled is there any gaskets/seals needed for these? Two 571752 gaskets perhaps for the drive flanges?
Anything else I need to know or other hints/tips?
Drain oil, pull the driveshafts out a few inches, discon prop, remove diff, clean up mating surfaces, reinstall with fresh gasket.
I just use RTV on mine. Not leaking yet. 2 years ago.
If I could do that I'd be very happy!
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Iv`e used RTV on D1`s , Classics , Deefers ect with out dramas
You will be ok using RTV
Wow, I didn't realise how quick and easy it is to remove the rear axels in the D1/RRC/Defender setup, wheels off, five bolts on that drive flange and pull them out! So different to my D2. Leak sorted now.
For anyone else in the future, the relevant torque settings are:
Diff to axel assembly - 14mm / I couldn't find this in the D1 Rave, but D2 Rave specifies - 55 Nm (apply Loctite 243 (medium strength) to threads - probably not relevant for the D1 as it has nylock nuts not bolts like D2). EDIT: Perhaps 'Pinion housing to axel case ... 41 Nm' is it? Ah well, hopefully the extra 14 Nm doesn't cause an issue...
Tailshaft to diff - 47 Nm / 9/16"
Drive flanges - 65 Nm (apply Loctite 270 (high strength) to threads) / 17mm
Wheel nuts - 130 Nm / 27mm
1/2" drive to remove the drain and fill plugs. Can't find a torque setting in D1 Rave manual but D2 states:
Drain - 64 Nm (apply Loctite 290 (medium strength) to threads)
Fill - 10Nm - but he D2 fill plug is very different so this probably doesn't apply...
80W-90 diff oil.
I can't see why the extra 14Nm from quoted will make any difference.
I'd say better to be safe than sorry, more so in that there could be a chance that the axle housing(at the banjo) may be slightly warped.
Apparently they do over time, so a teeny bit more is probably the more prudent method.
Could have been why yours had so much silicon gloop pasted all round it.
Arthur.
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
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