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Thread: Alloy wheel nut hex - what size is it meant to be? i.e. what size socket should suit

  1. #1
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    Question Alloy wheel nut hex - what size is it meant to be? i.e. what size socket should suit

    Our 98 D1 V8i has factory alloys with what is presumably the factory wheel nuts to suit - of the 20 nuts (the three for the spare are different type), 11 of them are a perfect fit for a 27mm socket, the remaining 9 the socket can only fit half way on with a bit of work and the nut is then difficult to remove from the socket after undoing.

    28mm seems to be a very uncommon size as none of my sets include it.
    Imperial options are 1 1/16" at 26.99mm which is slightly smaller, or 1 1/8" at 28.58mm which is too big and loose.

  2. #2
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    All should be 27mm but metal covers on Disco wheel nuts are a PITA.
    PaulT

    REMLR 256 / SLOw 4 (P)

    W/Shops/trailers & GS's
    RRs, Disco's, 110s & 109s.

  3. #3
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    My D1 has the 5 spoke alloys, but wheel nuts are all plain metal(ie. no covers).
    My D2 has alloys and all nuts have the stainless covers.
    Same sockets work on both .. either 27mm or 1 1/16th .. but as your issue, the stainless capped nuts have the same half way fit issue then get tight.

    I persevered and just whacked them on hoping that they'd straighten out, but in getting the socket off, most of the caps came off with the socket .. rather than the socket coming off leaving the cap on and straight.

    D2 is a project car, so not vital that it's all going yet, but I do have a spares car, and I got another set of wheels with nuts. Went through all of them and finally made a set of the stainless capped ones that work.
    All the capless nuts went onto the spares hack that will be gone soon.

    Those capped types seem to be a potential PITA at some point in the future.

    Also note: if you do have the capped types look for three different types. 1 will have a small raised bump on the face of the nut, one type will have a similar bump, but concave/inward and the other is just plain jane/nothing just smooth.

    The bumped one is the locknut type, cap comes off revealing a round locknut, where you use your special key and the 27mm or 1 1/16 socket on it's end. The one with the concave depression is for the spare only.
    It's major difference is that these nuts with the depression have threads all the way through to the end of the nut head. The regular wheel nuts only have thread half way into the wheel nut.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Also note: if you do have the capped types look for three different types. 1 will have a small raised bump on the face of the nut, one type will have a similar bump, but concave/inward and the other is just plain jane/nothing just smooth.
    Does that actually apply to the D1 range as well? I'm aware that it does for the D2 but I haven't seen it on a D1 and the nuts aren't compatible between the two.

    In regards to the D2, as you've said, one is standard wheel nut, one is the lock nuts and the third is for the spare wheel (not sure why standard wheel nuts couldn't be used of the spare wheel too).

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    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    Does that actually apply to the D1 range as well? I'm aware that it does for the D2 but I haven't seen it on a D1 and the nuts aren't compatible between the two.

    ......
    Of course, you're right. They're different.
    I was thinking maybe they'd been changed or something.

    So are the alloy wheel nuts on your D1 plain steel, or do they have the shiny stainless covers on them like D2 alloys?

    Mine are just plain steel alloy wheel nuts.
    No issues with getting either or metric or AF .. 12 point or (the better) 6 point sockets.

    I have issues with at least half of my D2 covered wheel nuts, of which I have 3 sets now. But no issues on the D1 non covered wheel nuts.


    Other possible causes could be that someone in the past may have used a slightly loose fitting 12 point socket and chewed half the nut head so you have some chipping on the nut head and why you have trouble.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  6. #6
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    I have found that the fancy covered wheel nuts are Disco and the others ( no shiney cover from factory ) are RRC specifically the tri spoke rims.
    PaulT

    REMLR 256 / SLOw 4 (P)

    W/Shops/trailers & GS's
    RRs, Disco's, 110s & 109s.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    So are the alloy wheel nuts on your D1 plain steel, or do they have the shiny stainless covers on them like D2 alloys?
    My D1 wheel nuts have the shiny caps on them the same as D2 - only difference is the thread of them. Of the 9 that don't fit well, only one is damaged on the cap, the all others don't look bent or chewed up or any reason that they shouldn't fit. Either way I purchased 9 replacements today that all fit a 27mm socket well so problem solved.

  8. #8
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    I think the NAS spec D1's had those capped wheel nuts.

    No idea which D1's locally(or maybe defenders) had them.
    All D1's I've seen so far, haven't had them.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

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    My d1 97 ES has the capped nuts, your 27mm should fit them all with some gentle persuasion. Mines done 400k after a few grease monkeys get their rattle guns on them they must twist slightly, just enough to **** ya!
    Glad your new ones fit better, just make sure the sockets all the way on so they dont have the same fateAlloy wheel nut hex - what size is it meant to be? i.e. what size socket should suit
    Cheers Jim

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by LRJim View Post
    My d1 97 ES has the capped nuts
    Jim, can you please tell me what kind of nuts you have on your spare wheel then - also the capped nuts? D1 alloy wheels - correct nuts for the spare wheels? Same as road wheels or different

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