T seals
I use locktite 5910 for the t seals and sump.
The hs 2.8 manual says to use silicone, so 5910 should be ok.
Rear main seal, get the hs2.8 from turners and use a gasket not silicone.
Plan for the disco is to freshen up motor.
As with all my landies i like to replace mains and big ends as motor is at 300k. Im thinking replaceing the cylinder head as well for a complete turner kit as when doing a recent head gasket change (may of been a negative diagnosis) i had the cylinder head cleaned up and resulted there was a crack next to a valve. Shop after cleaning up cylinder head knowing there was a crack skimmed the head.. ! I would of scrapped the head but cylinder held pressure. I dindnt get a chance to pressure test it to 130 psi as i normally do on questionable heads. Anyways i reinstalled the head as it was going to be a local tracks 4x4.
Now plans are to go across nullabor.! Lol hence the new head idea.
Hence plans are to remove motor and freshen up with
new big ends
mains
Core plugs
New fan hub bearing
Rear main oil seal, im worried about doing those t seals. Any alternatives? LOCKTITE?
Because the block would be free from vehicle i would of thougt it would make sence checking bores and replaceing rings? Is it worth checking bores with micrometer?
How do you check function of oil squirters? Is it possible to upgrade oil squirters to keep pistons cooler?
T seals
I use locktite 5910 for the t seals and sump.
The hs 2.8 manual says to use silicone, so 5910 should be ok.
Rear main seal, get the hs2.8 from turners and use a gasket not silicone.
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
Welch plugs whilst it is out.
1996 Disco 1 300TDI manual - Lucille a cantankerous red head! :D
1997 Disco 1 300TDI Auto - sold
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TDI D1(parting/ed)
TdiautoManual d1 (Kept it for the girlfriend)
Archaeopteryx 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Where abouts are you located ?
The oil squirters have a small check valve, easy enough to check operation
Boring and decking the block might be worth considering, new pistons and rings are not that expensive.
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
Located south east melbourne.
Ive done the core plug behind water pump so all good. Will be doing rest of them especially the rear one!
I didnt think of the injector pump so ill get the front seal and tip seal and bush replaced by ag diesel on westal rd.
Ill prob install v8 radiator 3 core radiator seeing going across nullabor with air con on 40 degrees towing a trailer seems abit serious.
Im thinking also to get rid of the engine oil cooler from the radiator and having its own oil cooler. Or should i t the oil extra oil cooler?.
Also ill be upgrading the zfhp22 oil cooler to something bigger and doing the saudi grill mod if i only can find some mesh. Any ideas?
Arthur.
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
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