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Thread: Disco 1 v8 97 wont start/runs rough. Need help

  1. #21
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    disconnect the MAF and TPS If you have the IAC unit as well disconnect that then manually operate the throttle body and see what happens.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


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  2. #22
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    The car was running good before your dissy drive shaft collapsed correct? Id be looking at that dissy and the way its been installed or built in the factory.
    Have you gone over the timing yet?

  3. #23
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    Will it keep running if you hold the revs up?
    '93 D1 V8 auto
    '93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
    '95 D1 V8 auto......gone
    '86 V8 RRC.....gone

  4. #24
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    [QUOTE=Tvaabel;2888498]
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    its flooding and the phasing may be off.

    first check the spark sequence pull the plugs, set the pump well before 1 should be TDC and firing then turn the crank slowly with your thumb on the plug hole, when it makes compression and the timing mark hits the 12 deg btdc mark, check the alignment of the dizzy arm, regardless of anything else this is now #1 firings position. now move to the next 45 degrees on the housing and the next pot in line, turn the crank slowly with your finger in that pots plug hole. that one should still work, but the 3rd one, if you dont get a little compressed air and got some suction, you used the wrong sequence to lable the pots and tried to do it 1234 down the left bank and 5678 down the right (or vice versa) when the landy is setup 1357 and 2468 left and right (double check that it might be right left, its been a while since I had to do a V8)

    YouTube

    if that doesnt work, its dumping the fuel in.

    1. check the injectors are getting a pulsed signal when you try to start, no pulse means the injectors are wide open.

    2. check that you havent left the vac line off to the FPR, if its off the fuel pressure in the rail will be up near whatever the max pressure the fuel pump can push out, if its got the wrong aftermarket pump in it that can mean that the injectors stick open.

    3. check you dont have a restriced air flow, if the air filter has collapsed or youve got a rag on the intake (yes it has, dont ask, I've even had a SIII digest and then spit burnt rag out the exhaust)

    this stuffs easy... if you can mount and unmount the dizzy and drive a multimeter with a fequency counter you can get this done.

    if you cant, ask more questions, we'll fill you in.

    if you get desperate enough, flick me a message, I'll give you a phone number to call.[/QUOTE
    Ignition is good. Starts but qfter 4 seconds seems to start getting flooded. Gottq be the sensors ir some ecu crap. Thinking of putting carby in. Any chance to troubleshoot ecu or sensors. Or maybe ill get a number off u snd get 1 more brain in
    Hey. I think its the fuel. Spark is good. Car has sat for days. Starts up fine and then u can hear it getting flooded starts stuttering and dies. Its strange gotta be a sensor or injectors or ecu. Would you be able to give me someones contact who could come and have a look in gold coast. My mate recons put a carby on it. Anybody has any experience with that . Carby sounds like a plan haha.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by LRJim View Post
    The car was running good before your dissy drive shaft collapsed correct? Id be looking at that dissy and the way its been installed or built in the factory.
    Have you gone over the timing yet?
    Im sure we are right with timing. We rechecked it. The car starts up and seems to wanna run for couple seconds and then it seems to just get too much fuel.... starts stuttering and dies. .... **** knows what it is. Our guess is its the damn electronics .

  6. #26
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    Apr 2011
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    Engine temp sensor for ecu disconnected or faulty, or faulty fuel pressure reg would be a good place to start if ignition is all good.
    '93 D1 V8 auto
    '93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
    '95 D1 V8 auto......gone
    '86 V8 RRC.....gone

  7. #27
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    Feb 2019
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    australia
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    So the latest is. Put air through the return line and then got it running. Found out mafs was ****ed.sp gpt a second hand pne from wreckers. Got the car running and it seems to odle nice. Took it fpr a drive but it seems to lack power starts stuttering and doesnt wanna go over 3000 rpm. Just seems to not run correctly still. Forgot to check the new mafs voltage too... Im going to try to do that soon. Any ideas what else could make it loose power like that. Maybe another sensor. Anyone knows how to test all the other sensors. And where the hell is ecu. .

  8. #28
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    On the wreck I saw a a wreckers recently, I think I saw it on the drivers side kick panel, that is, behind the panel.
    I removed the panel, as I wanted to do a bit of a mod on my TDi, but theirs was busted, but I'm sure saw a large greyish module on the body behind it, above the relays. Maybe that was the body module tho .. dunno.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

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