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Thread: Disco 1

  1. #1
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    Disco 1

    Hi Gents
    My sons D1 glass shattered in the drivers side rear door. I have replaced it and manufactured a new bottom bracket to retain the 1/4 window, but as I was putting it back together, the nylon bush on the winding mechanism shattered. Is there an easy option or do I need a complete mechanism assembly. I was toying with the idea of drilling out the rivet that holds the pivot pin and fitting a nylon wheel from a shower door.
    Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.
    Thx Ian
    1964, S2a SWB "Ralph"
    1977, S3 SWB "Smeg" (Gone)
    1996 D1 300tdi auto (Gone)
    1973 Rangie Classic (Gone)
    2012, 110 (Series 12) Puma "The Tardis"
    1962 109" Tray Back "Ernie"
    1998 D1 300tdi (Dizzy)
    2017 Kawasaki Versys 1000

    You must now cut down the tallest tree in the forest... With... A HERRING!!!!!

  2. #2
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    I got a 6mm (?) nylon cutting board from the 2 dollar shop and cut a suitable piece from it. About 30mm long and width to suit the track.
    PaulT

    REMLR 256 / SLOw 4 (P)

    W/Shops/trailers & GS's
    RRs, Disco's, 110s & 109s.

  3. #3
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    Mine have all been replaced with a metal roller turned up in a lathe. There was a video on YouTube where a bloke in the UK used a small coin to replace the crap nylon roller. Cant find it just now, maybe worth a search.

  4. #4
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    Have a search on the forum, there is a door or window roller you can get from Bunnings that is a very close fit with slight manipulation of the track, I did this years ago, still going strong.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vern View Post
    Have a search on the forum, there is a door or window roller you can get from Bunnings that is a very close fit with slight manipulation of the track, I did this years ago, still going strong.
    Thanks Vern, found the original post. Off to bunnings this morning. Thanks to all who responded. Much appreciated.
    Ian
    1964, S2a SWB "Ralph"
    1977, S3 SWB "Smeg" (Gone)
    1996 D1 300tdi auto (Gone)
    1973 Rangie Classic (Gone)
    2012, 110 (Series 12) Puma "The Tardis"
    1962 109" Tray Back "Ernie"
    1998 D1 300tdi (Dizzy)
    2017 Kawasaki Versys 1000

    You must now cut down the tallest tree in the forest... With... A HERRING!!!!!

  6. #6
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    Just got back from Bunnings with 2 x 4361 wheels, but grinding one down, the wheel bearing let go and it was still about 0.3mm off being thin enough to fit in the track, so off to the sheetmetal shop to make a new track 7 mm wide internally, to suit the 6mm wheel width. I might make 2 and do the other rear door as well, as I reckon the 1/4 window support bracket will be as badly rusted as this one was, and Murphy's law dictates that the other side window mech runner will break if I dont come prepared.
    1964, S2a SWB "Ralph"
    1977, S3 SWB "Smeg" (Gone)
    1996 D1 300tdi auto (Gone)
    1973 Rangie Classic (Gone)
    2012, 110 (Series 12) Puma "The Tardis"
    1962 109" Tray Back "Ernie"
    1998 D1 300tdi (Dizzy)
    2017 Kawasaki Versys 1000

    You must now cut down the tallest tree in the forest... With... A HERRING!!!!!

  7. #7
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    You don't have to grind much off the wheel, more so widen the track, a bit of both will get it done

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by pop058 View Post
    I got a 6mm (?) nylon cutting board from the 2 dollar shop and cut a suitable piece from it. About 30mm long and width to suit the track.
    This generally what I have in an old D1 and my D2 with a bit of a clean up. I used a countersunk stainless bolt/nut to secure it to the arm.

    window fix3.jpg
    PaulT

    REMLR 256 / SLOw 4 (P)

    W/Shops/trailers & GS's
    RRs, Disco's, 110s & 109s.

  9. #9
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    I ended up making a new track which was a bit wider and fitted it all up with the roller wheel from bunnings.
    It was a bit fiddly getting inside the door frame to line it all up and bolt it to the window track, but in the end
    it all worked like a charm. Now I have to check the other side and figure out why the rear windows dont work.
    I ended up having to drive the window up and down with a live feed straight to the motor. I did read something
    somewhere about a dry joint on the PCB behind the glove box, which I will have to check out when I get a minute.
    Thx again all.
    Cheers Ian
    1964, S2a SWB "Ralph"
    1977, S3 SWB "Smeg" (Gone)
    1996 D1 300tdi auto (Gone)
    1973 Rangie Classic (Gone)
    2012, 110 (Series 12) Puma "The Tardis"
    1962 109" Tray Back "Ernie"
    1998 D1 300tdi (Dizzy)
    2017 Kawasaki Versys 1000

    You must now cut down the tallest tree in the forest... With... A HERRING!!!!!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Bundaberg Qld
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    Quote Originally Posted by ezyrama View Post
    I ended up making a new track which was a bit wider and fitted it all up with the roller wheel from bunnings.
    It was a bit fiddly getting inside the door frame to line it all up and bolt it to the window track, but in the end
    it all worked like a charm. Now I have to check the other side and figure out why the rear windows dont work.
    I ended up having to drive the window up and down with a live feed straight to the motor. I did read something
    somewhere about a dry joint on the PCB behind the glove box, which I will have to check out when I get a minute.
    Thx again all.
    Cheers Ian
    Dry solder joints on the PCB is the most common reason back windows don't work. Pop the glovebox out and the board is just behind it. I have done a couple and re-wetting all the joints solved it for me. There is a tutorial on here ( and many other places) for it.
    PaulT

    REMLR 256 / SLOw 4 (P)

    W/Shops/trailers & GS's
    RRs, Disco's, 110s & 109s.

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