A test fit with a new A-pillar bottom section. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f313e65390.jpg
Looks better already. [emoji106]
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A test fit with a new A-pillar bottom section. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f313e65390.jpg
Looks better already. [emoji106]
Great to see!
I did a restoration on a mini when I was 15 just before I got my licence as well, best learning experience! I did all the welding with an oxygen/acetylene and wire, no flash mig welder!
Have you got a sand blaster? or are you just going to chop all the rusted sections out and replace?
Wish I had the space for a project car!
Keep the pic's coming, It's like watching restoration garage[thumbsupbig]
Lemo
No I don’t have a sand blaster. That would have been handy.
So we spent about a day and a half cutting out and treating rust, and about two days making replacement bits. And not yet finished. So here is where we are up to.
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Looking great [emoji1303]Quote:
Originally Posted by rar110
Looking good. May I suggest that you get a rave repair manual (Available on this site) and start you boy on a journey of discovery fixing his Discovery. They are easy to work on. Also with out having to pay some one labour. Buy a RAVE manual and with advise from this site and a search, I really cant see how you could go wrong. Teach him how to bleed the fuel system and how to service it. Enjoy the journey.
Thanks. I was keen to print out a workshop manual. I find it easier to have a hard copy when working on stuff following a manual step by step.
I do have a factory defender manual which is has some overlap.
Next mechanical job is bleeding the brakes after he fitted a new master cylinder. I assume it’s a pretty standard process of bleeding from the furtherest point.
The other is cleaning out the fuel water separator. This is one design feature of D1 I don’t like. I’m still to have a look at how to bleed the 300tdi fuel system. I’m very familiar with this process on the 4BD1.
I’ve decided to fix the floor with stainless rivets and sikaflex 221 sealant adhesive, after talking to the sikaflex customer advice line. Rather than tack or spot welding the sheet into place.
I’ve also decided to structurally strengthen the A- pillar join with the new boot with a piece of gal angle welded to the inside of the existing pillar down into the new pillar bottom or boot.
I find it easier to bleed if you fill the new master cylinder with brake fluid before fitting it and keep the pics coming. [thumbsupbig]
Process is similar. I generally bleed to the filter first, then to the injector pump. I usually find it will then start after a short crank, but if not then bleed the injector pipes. Just remember that the lift pump is operated by pushing away from you on the lever, and that the pump will need to be off the cam lobe, so you can get a full stroke on the lever. You can bleed by cranking with the starter, but I don't like it. If you do, maybe disconnect the shut off wire.Quote:
Originally Posted by rar110
300TDis are simple. Lots of info around about tuning them.
Tuning_Land_Rover_Tdi_engines_Rev_2.pdf
Another progress update. Progress has been a bit slow with lots of minor adjustments and test fitting bits especially the floor. I’m now pretty happy with how the floor is fitting. It’s a very snug fit against the rebuild inner side wall, so will seal well.
I did finish the B-pillar and that section of sill.
Hopefully Monday we can put it all back together.
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