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Thread: D1 restoration project

  1. #41
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    Having gone that deep with the sticks through the centre console it would have been a wise move to replace the Bias Plate (a known wear part) rather than have to pull it all apart again one day.

    Maybe you did.

    Just sayin'

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post
    Having gone that deep with the sticks through the centre console it would have been a wise move to replace the Bias Plate (a known wear part) rather than have to pull it all apart again one day.

    Maybe you did.

    Just sayin'
    Gday 4bee, I’m not that familiar with the D1. What’s the Bias Plate?
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  3. #43
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    It is a steel plate with an up stand that bolts directly over the stick. The up-stand limits the distance to the front of the stick that is in contact with it to centralise the plate in a pre-determined position so that the gears align. The up standBias Plate Damaged. Original at 140,000km.jpgBias Plate Damaged. Original at 140,000km.jpgBias Plate on selector housing..jpg wear & crack, & one's gear change is a bit hap hazard. There is minimal side to side adjustment to locate it correctly.

    Apologies about the images My Docs is not behaving today.

    Land Rover Bias Plate failure - Google Search

    NB. If you need to do this operation use this link He explains it well.




    PS. The rock has a different P/No.
    Last edited by 4bee; 18th November 2019 at 07:16 AM. Reason: Correcting words

  4. #44
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    D1 restoration project

    The rear sill area is taking much longer than I thought. Under the plastic inner sill I found rust bubbling under the surface. I discovered this is where the cargo floor overlaps with the lower outer sill panel and also where the upper outer sill connects to the cargo floor panel.



    In between these overlapping parts was rust so had to cut away the top layer of steel. Which showed the rust damage.



    Sections of the lower sill had rusted away so I decided to clean it up, coat it with tectyl, and rivet a new strip of steel over the top using counter sunk stainless rivets.



    I then fabricated a new upper layer to again connect the cargo floor with the two outer sill sections, coated it all with more tectyl and riveted it in place.



    I used rivets as I wanted to apply tectyl to this vulnerable area to prevent rust reoccurring. Welding and tectyl don’t work together.

    None of the area where I used rivets will be visible once it’s all back together.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  5. #45
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    Brisbane, Queensland
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    I finally finished the rear end rust repairs and yesterday it passed road worthy, and rego done. So only a few cosmetic bits to go and will be finished.

    A couple of pics.


    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Buderim
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    Dont forget to check for corrosion in the top corners of the windscreen - probably the source of your water leaks.
    Pull off the A pillar covers and look up into the top corners - or you may see the water rust trail migrating down the inside of the A pillar.
    The holes in the top corners of the windscreen can be large - as can those in the moon windows.
    Suggestt you pull off the interior parts covering the moon windows and check also. Rust areas can be simply treated and primed with 2 pack and the windows put back in with plenty of windscreen sealant - mastic.
    Also check the horizontal seam along the top of the firewall - the original factory sealant in the gutter adjacent to the windshield cracks and allows water to penetrate that seam and it rusts badly - once rusted in the firewall then it is not generally recoverable and a lot of water enters the cabin. This affliction is very commmon in all RRC, D1 and also D2 unfortunately.
    The picture shows one that has had the old sealant removed and new sikaflex 227 added and then painted. This car had zero rust anywhere and was a good save. I also treat and seal all seams in the floor pans and the mudguard support panels with sika to ensure that any corrosion cannot penetrate the spotwelded seams - if you want to keep the car as a collector that is.
    Good luck.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1998 D1 in showroom condition, 1999 D2 TD5 with everything, 2000 P38 showroom condition.
    Freelander 2 2012
    1992 RRC sold and now pranged.

  7. #47
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    Thanks for the tips Peter. I’ll have a look over the next couple of weeks.

    I didn’t see your post until now, as I was about to ask about rain getting into the front floor under the sound insulation. The floor is soaked with all this rain and the D1 lives outside.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Adelaide Hills. South Australia
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    Also lift the bonnet & inspect behind the intake grille & wiper motor area, check for water tracking through screws & blocked drains (1 each side) If the drains are restricted hose them through &/or see if it is possible to extend the narrow Air duct intake with silicone or similar as that being low will allow the water to build up & go over.

    Do check for the previous opinions also.

    Good luck.

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