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Thread: New 1996 300tdi owner

  1. #31
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    Damn! .. on the price of the crank tool. I got mine when GST wasn't a thing on low priced stuff.

    Anyhow. Re the aux battery. I'd say earth to chassis. nothing wrong with that. Actually can be 'more handy' in a few respects anyhow.

    Had an issue with my alternator some time back. One of the first things I did to mine was snorkel and aux battery. Aux battery on the passengers side battery tray, which meant air box mod, so at the same time .. made sense to also do snorkel.
    So alternator died, which means(on a tdi) you can still drive(for quite awhile) .. all you need to to jump start the main batt.
    Battery cables are so last century. simple cheap(ish) Redarc dual battery solenoid(VSR), with the ability to jump start(via switch) .. made having no alternator for about a week a painless issue.
    New alt was got eventually, easy to fit but having the jump start just kept me going whilst busy with working(long hours) and stuff. I only had to charge the batteries once in that week.
    Also, now my new issue is the still fairly new but useless Exide start battery. It has to go now .. had enough of it. Just doesn't have the guts to start the tdi as it should. So far as it's summer and hence warmer, I haven't had to use the jump start feature, but if I don't rid myself of this useless Exide battery colder winter starts will require it.

    So my recommendation would be to keep them linked, use a dual battery reg of some type(see Traxide products too).

    Another tool to have in mind(as I think you mentioned it) is the box spanner type socket for wheel bearings(the nuts).. IIRC 52mm.
    I got a $12 cheapo with no sq drive for socket wrench(ie. torque wrench). It only had through holes for a bar and I didn't like it so welded a spare 1/2" socket drive a fairly useless 1/4" to 1/2" adapter. Easy to do it(maybe 10 mins of cut and weld).
    I have seen proper 52mm sockets, but a bit exxy for just doing the wheel bearing nuts(maybe once in 5 years or so).
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  2. #32
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    Dec 2019
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    Mid North Coast, NSW
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    Ok I will go the earth to chassis route.

    Yeah defiantly want to get an isolator that will allow a bypass via a switch so can crank off both batteries. Think I will get the Redarc one, but just discoverred the Traxide stuff and seems pretty good.

    So does that mean you placed the second battery lengthwise towards the back of the car and thus would hit the air box?
    I was thinking of having it the other way and moving the jack as well as extending the power steering reservoir bracket to get it out of the way.

    Yeah defiantly getting a 52mm socket, found a cheapo 1/2 impact socket for $20 on fleabay; so will roll with that.

    Planning to change the crank gear, did I see you posted in another thread that got the correct puller to remove this? does it always require a puller? This is another not cheap item online.


    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Damn! .. on the price of the crank tool. I got mine when GST wasn't a thing on low priced stuff.

    Anyhow. Re the aux battery. I'd say earth to chassis. nothing wrong with that. Actually can be 'more handy' in a few respects anyhow.

    Had an issue with my alternator some time back. One of the first things I did to mine was snorkel and aux battery. Aux battery on the passengers side battery tray, which meant air box mod, so at the same time .. made sense to also do snorkel.
    So alternator died, which means(on a tdi) you can still drive(for quite awhile) .. all you need to to jump start the main batt.
    Battery cables are so last century. simple cheap(ish) Redarc dual battery solenoid(VSR), with the ability to jump start(via switch) .. made having no alternator for about a week a painless issue.
    New alt was got eventually, easy to fit but having the jump start just kept me going whilst busy with working(long hours) and stuff. I only had to charge the batteries once in that week.
    .

  3. #33
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    Dec 2019
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    On further reading of the Traxide products I think I will go with their USI-160 battery isolator, I like that the auxiliary battery can top up cranking when car is off along with shared mode. Sounds really good and they include the switch and led which would further equate the price of it and the REDARC SBI12 ($199 USI vs ~$150ish SBI).

    The ability to to connect both batteries for cranking if main goes flat feels pretty mandatory considering mine is an auto, no roll starts.

  4. #34
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    Yeah, I got a Redarc SBI12 (cheap, off bro, who also got it cheap) is OK, but I'd prefer a bit more flexibility with it tho.
    One day will change, no rush .. like I said the push to jump start is really the only feature that's handy to have.

    As for battery, aux battery fits sideways like the main, but you need to move airbox .. handy to do with a snorkel, as most snorkels I've seen will require this anyhow.

    You can't fit a really large ZZ sized battery in this 'air box space' unless you also move the power steer pump reservoir .. so if you need (say) 100+ Ah battery as Aux, you will need to move pwr str reservoir too.
    I just got a really cheap 65Ah same size (and orientation) as main battery for aux. Have plans to also get some solar, and I don't really park up for more than a day .. max 2 .. so don't really need lots of capacity.

    Air box gets moved just slightly back and to one side a little .. all bits and pieces would be supplied with a snorkel(recommended if you want to do dusty roads and or water crossing).

    Oh yeah .. forgot about jack .. jack is in back with tools and stuff. Usually in one of the rear side bins(mine's a 5 seater).

    nother thing that handy .. cargo barrier!
    D1 is very small down back if you want to carry lots of gear for a trip. Only real way to load it is higher and higher.
    Mine had a full length, which I chopped to keep only the top half. Made brackets to allow me to swing it up, and out of the way too tho. This way you still can load long stuff with seat down. Full length I found was less useful in that sense.

    re crank gear? not sure (can't remember) which post you refer too. I do remember having trouble with harmonic balancer, where the cheapo threaded puller I had wore out it's threads. They can be hard to pull out, but I made my effort doubly hard where I didnt' remove radiator(ie. my bad).
    IIRC some guys said maybe use a little heat on it just in case last person used loctite or something on it. Maybe mine did. But I remember it being a little painful to remove. Just kept at it and it finally loosened.
    I don't really remember that part being too troubling .. more so my hack effort for the crank(harmonic) holding tool to tighten it all back up. steel flying everywhere, blood streaming from hands .. and then stupidly thinking I got it right!

    But if you mean the crank gear .. as in the gear for the timing belt(behind the front cover) .. I don't think this is any issue .. just slid off easy.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  5. #35
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    Ah yep understand how you orientated the battery. What snorkel did you get? There is some cheap ones around $100 while the safari is double to triple that. Don't really plan on deep river crossing's, would be aimed much more at dusty roads.

    I wouldn't require huge amounts of power, but when you have power you always seem to find more stuff to run off it. Main thing would be a fridge.

    Solar panels are a hard decision for me, I like the simplicity of hard mounting to the roof but always park my car in the shade if at possible. While the setting up of a pop up would be annoying in its own way.

    rear cargo barrier is a tough one as I surf and boards and barriers don't gel together. I am strongly considering pulling out the back seats to build a bed platform with drawers underneath anyway.

    Yeah I was meaning the crank gear that drives the timing belt, which I believe is on the same shaft as the harmonic balancer. Thats great if it came off easily enough for you, hopefully will be the same for me.

  6. #36
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    snorkel .. cheapie. My guess with it was .. if it works, great. the hard part(actually easy) is the install. If it's garbage, then I'll get a proper one(say safari). But 4 years, and many brushes with the bush later, still fine.

    Yeah, timing gear on crank should just slide off easy enough. This is where the front main seal is. As I posted before, if you see that your front main seal is dry and looks fine, change it!
    The recommendation is to just change it, and where I buggered up, as mine wasn't leaking in any way. Changing this crank gear will almost certainly then make the front main seal leak.

    ps. does your tdi have any oil leaks(they usually do) mine developed them over a short period, I stupidly created new ones(eg. front seal, and from the sensor installs I did), but finally found them all, and now zero leaks .. whoot!
    Most annoying to find, coz it's not obvious, was the oil pump thermostat O ring. Again, easy to do, but hard to locate where the oil was coming from. Vacuum pump is also notorious for leaking.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  7. #37
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    Okey cool, well might just grab a cheap one too and give it a go, is making sure its airtight difficult? Or do you just spray a lot of silicon around?

    I have ABS so things are abit tighter around the airbox.

    Yeah I have the seal for behind the crank gear and on the front cover, will be changing both.

    And of course it has oil leaks! Never visible drops on the ground after parking but when you get underneath and have you look there is oil around. Bottom of oil sump is very oily with a drop semi formed, as well as bottom of flywheel casing (does this mean rear main seal might be leaking?). Transfercase inspection window has oil around its edge.

    Front diff pinion seal, have the seal ready to install.

    Will slowly work through and attempt to stop all leaks.

  8. #38
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    Unhappy

    Sump leaks are pretty common as the sealant lets go after some time and additionally the T seal are very close to the edge of the pan - so oil can move along the rear main T seal seam or can move down the threads of the 2 outer and aft sump bolts.
    See attached.
    Other common oi leaks around the engine are the vacuum pump of course and the oil filter thermostat flange - closest oil pipe to the driver leaving the filter assembly. The o ring labelled 4 is the culprit - 28mm ID by 2.5 cross section. See diagram attached.

    You mentioned you found the blknight info on timing belt change - can you paste the link please.
    Is yours a manual? - if so can you have a look at my post on the orientation of the clutch return spring - I posted about 3-4 weeks ago and have not had a reply from anyone.
    Many thanks
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1998 D1 in showroom condition, 1999 D2 TD5 with everything, 2000 P38 showroom condition.
    Freelander 2 2012
    1992 RRC sold and now pranged.

  9. #39
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    Thanks for the information about common leaks, will give them a suss.

    I can't re find the thread right now but will attach a pdf of the tutorial to this post.

    Sorry but mine is an auto


    Quote Originally Posted by peter51 View Post
    Sump leaks are pretty common as the sealant lets go after some time and additionally the T seal are very close to the edge of the pan - so oil can move along the rear main T seal seam or can move down the threads of the 2 outer and aft sump bolts.
    See attached.

    Many thanks
    Attached Files Attached Files

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