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Thread: Respray advice please!

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Avoca Beach
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    My RRS is starting to lose the clear on the roof. Coming off in small random patches. No milky degradation. Just lifting in localised spots like it didn't stick down properly. That has happened suddenly, too. A few months ago it was perfect, now there are several sections lifting. Bonnet and all other surfaces are still perfect. AFAIK it has never been resprayed and there's no obvious evidence of that. Maybe now is the opportunity to contrast the roof, or not...

    The D1 however.... It went milky and then the clear crumbled to dust.

    DiscoClax
    This is all a result of the EEC mandating back in about 1980 or so that car paint had to be water based rather than solvent based.

    Ever since the clearcoats only last about 10-15 years. Not that German clear coat used to last even when it was solvent based!

    If you have a dark colour it is IMHO good practice in Australia to repaint with a light colour, which also upholds a long LR tradition.
    Regards PhilipA

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Mt Barker SA
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    Your spray can job is doing well! Definitely always exceptions to every rule paint isn't supposed to adhere to plastic or rubber without suitable primers but have seen a few times where it has. So definitely exceptions with spray can paint too.
    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    Hi Epic , to me it is a question of how much you put into an old car.

    My spray can job is now 3-4 years old and still looks as good as it did when done. It is not so great as it was done outdoors and a hot change happened midway which caused the paint to dry before landing, however a vigorous sand before applying the clear coat made it look OK , at least better than milky clear coat that was about to peel at some stage. I polish it regularly and it still beads water well.

    The silver colour over Oslo Blue looks great and is about 20C cooler on a hot day. I have also covered my skylights with Chrome wrap. If it were to fail which I doubt I would just do it again! as it only costs 100-200 in materials.

    Look an old D2 will also pick up many bush stripes on the sides if used as many are used , as mine has.

    My bonnet has numerous flying fox **** marks on it , and a dent but I do not want to try to paint that as I know my limitations. I also repainted a grille with a Supercheap Oslo Blue can and clear coated it and it still looks great.
    I hear what you say but to spend bulk dollars on a dunger D1 is just not sensible.

    Regards PhilipA

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Darwin
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrickyChip View Post
    Hi all, I’ve been quoted $10k and $14k for a the rust repair and a closed door respray in the same colour.
    Someone I know offered a car painting service straight after cyclone Tracy. Charged good money. Clients were outraged after they found it was just house paint...but his reply 'nothing else available'.

    A Nissan Patrol station wagon owner recently roller painted his entire vehicle with boot liner (Rhino?). Real rough texture. Trouble is kids pick at it when they pass by. If sprayed it gives a good smooth finish and is recommended for wheel well liner to resist stone chip - local auto spray shop had cards showing the different finishes.

    Wonder if clear coat is really required. What about waxing a paint coat?

    $10k plus a lot of money for a cheap car - would buy a lot of gear. Spray cans would cost more than the value of the vehicle. I spray paint, and only expect a finish better than was there, but not a professional finish. The professionals also know the hazards which often get overlooked by the amateur - get a good combined PA mask/filter, usually retailed as a 'spray painting mask', P picks up the aerosol drops while the A is activated charcoal and picks up the solvent - cheap paper are not really good enough even when rattle caning. Don't spray cyanate based paints without full body protection.

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