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Thread: Swivels, Brakes, Wobbles etc etc

  1. #1
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    Swivels, Brakes, Wobbles etc etc

    Hi all,

    In a long mission to solve my steering "death wobble" and for good measure (and a small incident with a tree stump!) I have replaced the following:

    Radius arm bushes
    Anti roll bar links and bushes
    Panrod bushes
    Track rod, drag link and all ball joint ends
    New tyres & alignment
    Rebuilt swivel housings, seals bearings etc.
    Wheel bearings

    I seem to have solved the death wobble, I'm not entirely sure which component it was, every step made it slightly better but none of the worn components were particularly worn or damaged. Probably a combination. I adjusted the swivel preload to be between 1.1 and 1.5kg (I think I got that reference from RAVE) and I'm hoping that's correct for Disco's with ABS. While the death wobble has gone my steering is now quite loose and also very vague in the centre and the alignment seems slightly off. Should I have had the alignment done again after doing the swivels? Obviously I did it after doing the track rods. I'm going to remove a shim or two and from the top swivel pin and hopefully that will tighten things up, any ideas?

    Also since doing the swivels the brake pedal is now very soft on the first push, firms up on the second. I didn't disconnect the brake lines though, just moved the calliper and brake line bracket to do the swivels. I'm thinking to bleed the brakes but I should probably find out how air got in there in the first place, could it have happened just from moving them or something else do you think?

    I'm feeling a bit down trodden by it all one step forward and two steps back sort of thing. Any help would be much appreciated as always

    Cheers

  2. #2
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    Hi Trickychip,
    I had a similar experience with my brakes that I traced to loose wheel bearings. They allowed the brake pads to move apart as the wheel and disc wobbled a bit, hence pedal would go nearly to the floor on first push as it took up the slack. Might be worth checking. Re other replacements you didn’t mention steering damper, and even if it was replaced some cheap ones are not worth fitting.
    Good luck,
    Woolly.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woolly View Post
    Hi Trickychip,
    I had a similar experience with my brakes that I traced to loose wheel bearings. They allowed the brake pads to move apart as the wheel and disc wobbled a bit, hence pedal would go nearly to the floor on first push as it took up the slack. Might be worth checking. Re other replacements you didn’t mention steering damper, and even if it was replaced some cheap ones are not worth fitting.
    Good luck,
    Woolly.
    Hi Woolly, thanks for your reply. I did replace the steering damper with a blistein one and I changed the wheel bearings so unless they’ve settled a bit more and I need to adjust the hub nuts again I can’t really see it being that. I’m going to bleed the brakes and see where that gets me!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woolly View Post
    Hi Trickychip,
    I had a similar experience with my brakes that I traced to loose wheel bearings.
    Woolly.
    That was my first thought. Pads get pushed back by runout, and loose bearings are a major cause of that.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

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    Quote Originally Posted by TrickyChip View Post
    I changed the wheel bearings so unless they’ve settled a bit more and I need to adjust the hub nuts again I can’t really see it being that.
    I can. They will definitely settle. Doesn't take much to check.

    Quote Originally Posted by TrickyChip View Post
    I’m going to bleed the brakes and see where that gets me!
    If the pedal is firm after the first pump it's unlikely to be air, as that never gets firm.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    I can. They will definitely settle. Doesn't take much to check.



    If the pedal is firm after the first pump it's unlikely to be air, as that never gets firm.
    Thanks JayTee, I’ll check that first, easier than bleeding the brakes so thanks for that info, mich appreciated!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    I can. They will definitely settle. Doesn't take much to check.



    If the pedal is firm after the first pump it's unlikely to be air, as that never gets firm.
    I've been thinking about what you're both saying and I'm thinking if the swivels are incorrectly adjusted (i.e not enough pre load) then could that allow the hub to move and have the same effect as a loose bearing/hub? Didn't have time to check today but I'll report back tomorrow

  8. #8
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    Swivels will not affect brakes.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #9
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    Well, you were all right as usual! Got back to the hub nuts and both needed another half a turn, amazing how much difference it’s made- steering and brakes are great now. Now to find an SRS bull bar that doesn’t break the bank!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrickyChip View Post
    I've been thinking about what you're both saying and I'm thinking if the swivels are incorrectly adjusted (i.e not enough pre load) then could that allow the hub to move and have the same effect as a loose bearing/hub? Didn't have time to check today but I'll report back tomorrow
    Swivels would ned to be falling off to show the symptoms you report.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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