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Thread: RH tail lights not working

  1. #1
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    Unhappy RH tail lights not working

    Hey folks,

    I have a problem with my rear tail lights that is doing my head in
    The rear right tail lights don't work - either on the bar or the body lights.
    The brake lights and indicator lights work fine on both sides.

    I pulled the fitting out and it appears that the red wire with an orange stripe is meant to be the tail light wire but it is giving no power.
    I pulled some of the rear interior panels out to see that there is a conduit that runs along the left hand side of the car with the rear light wires in it. It then crosses above the rear door and down to the right hand lights.

    Is there separate fuses for the left and right hand side rear tail lights? I would presume that if the problem was a fuse then both the left and right tail lights wouldn't work?
    In any event i checked the fuses and they all seem fine.
    All the lights were working correctly a few weeks ago when i checked them - and out of nowhere this problem has started...

    Thanks!
    97 Disco 300Tdi, front & rear diff locked, hybrid turbo, full width intercooler, cranked front & rear arms,
    2” dobinson coils, terrafirma shocks, HD steering arms, diff guards, rocksliders, domin8r winch, tank guard

  2. #2
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    I know that there are separate fuses for some lights at the rear, very well could be parkers.

    Tom.
    1996 Disco 1 300TDI manual - Lucille a cantankerous red head! :D
    1997 Disco 1 300TDI Auto - sold

  3. #3
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    According to RAVE, Fuse F10 does the RHS lights(they call them side lamps, if you search for it), LHS is via fuse F2.

    If you have no power at the red/orange power wire then no point in checking ground wire.

    But two possibilities could be at play.
    The trailer splice is via the RHS section of the loom. Do you have power for trailer lights, if you have a trailer plug fitted?
    Could be a break at the splice back there.
    Alternatively, at the back of the fuse box is a plug(C211) which will have the red/orange wire coming out. check this point for power too.

    if you have park lights(again they call them side lights) at the front, then it wouldn't be the fuse(F10) as both front and rear rights both come off the same fuse.
    If you have power at the front, then it'll have something to do with a break in the line from connector 211 at the fuse box and backwards from there(and maybe to the trailer splice).
    The power for the front right lights is off connector 204(again at the fuse box).

    If you have RAVE, check section H4 in the electrical section for a clear diagrammatic explanation.

    The best way to describe the difference between the two connectors on the rear of the fuse box(which will have both red/orange wires out of them:
    C211(the one you want to test) is a 10 pin plug with 5 wires into it.
    C204 is the larger 24 pin connector which will also have an red/orange wire for the front rights.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    According to RAVE, Fuse F10 does the RHS lights(they call them side lamps, if you search for it), LHS is via fuse F2.

    If you have no power at the red/orange power wire then no point in checking ground wire.

    But two possibilities could be at play.
    The trailer splice is via the RHS section of the loom. Do you have power for trailer lights, if you have a trailer plug fitted?
    Could be a break at the splice back there.
    Alternatively, at the back of the fuse box is a plug(C211) which will have the red/orange wire coming out. check this point for power too.

    if you have park lights(again they call them side lights) at the front, then it wouldn't be the fuse(F10) as both front and rear rights both come off the same fuse.
    If you have power at the front, then it'll have something to do with a break in the line from connector 211 at the fuse box and backwards from there(and maybe to the trailer splice).
    The power for the front right lights is off connector 204(again at the fuse box).

    If you have RAVE, check section H4 in the electrical section for a clear diagrammatic explanation.

    The best way to describe the difference between the two connectors on the rear of the fuse box(which will have both red/orange wires out of them:
    C211(the one you want to test) is a 10 pin plug with 5 wires into it.
    C204 is the larger 24 pin connector which will also have an red/orange wire for the front rights.

    Thanks Arthur!

    So i have a trailer plug fitted. Someone before me used those awful little click together wire taps instead of solder. There is also a mini trailer socket looking thing which looks to to installed from factory behind the light fitting. I presume this was made to be plug and play with an extension to connect a trailer?

    The red/orange wire splits into a Y with one wire going to the rear light fitting - one wire going down to the rear bumper fitting and one wire going to the trailer fittings.
    I presume a short on the trailer wires would have blown the fuse though? As I did check the fuses but i will double check them just to make sure. The connectors will be the next thing to check tonight if it's not raining.
    97 Disco 300Tdi, front & rear diff locked, hybrid turbo, full width intercooler, cranked front & rear arms,
    2” dobinson coils, terrafirma shocks, HD steering arms, diff guards, rocksliders, domin8r winch, tank guard

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Finnius View Post
    ....
    I presume a short on the trailer wires would have blown the fuse though? As I did check the fuses but i will double check them just to make sure. The connectors will be the next thing to check tonight if it's not raining.
    Yep, your explanation of the wiring sounds about right.
    But, if there was a short and the fuse blew, my understanding of the RAVE wiring is that you'd also have no front park lights too, that is the little wedge bulb in the headlight will also not be on.
    Note that tail lights and headlights are not the same fuse/switch, so you may have front right headlight .. which is different switch. Check the park light in the headlight on the RHS for operation. They are T10 type wedge globes(and a side note: LED work really nicely in there)
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Yep, your explanation of the wiring sounds about right.
    But, if there was a short and the fuse blew, my understanding of the RAVE wiring is that you'd also have no front park lights too, that is the little wedge bulb in the headlight will also not be on.
    Note that tail lights and headlights are not the same fuse/switch, so you may have front right headlight .. which is different switch. Check the park light in the headlight on the RHS for operation. They are T10 type wedge globes(and a side note: LED work really nicely in there)
    The front RH park light was not working! Thanks Arthur. I have never been more happy finding a light not working
    The fuse in question was right below the ABS fuse with the big yellow bracket thingy partially hiding it.

    Now i have to get my gauge cluster lights working! Unless they are on the same fuse! haha

    On a side note, have you ever seen a mod where they swap the front park lights with LEDs and then get the park light to turn on with the ignition power - thereby making a nice looking DRL for visibility on the road?
    97 Disco 300Tdi, front & rear diff locked, hybrid turbo, full width intercooler, cranked front & rear arms,
    2” dobinson coils, terrafirma shocks, HD steering arms, diff guards, rocksliders, domin8r winch, tank guard

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Yep, your explanation of the wiring sounds about right.
    But, if there was a short and the fuse blew, my understanding of the RAVE wiring is that you'd also have no front park lights too, that is the little wedge bulb in the headlight will also not be on.
    Note that tail lights and headlights are not the same fuse/switch, so you may have front right headlight .. which is different switch. Check the park light in the headlight on the RHS for operation. They are T10 type wedge globes(and a side note: LED work really nicely in there)
    The dash lights in the gauge pod now work since i replaced the fuse for the RH park lights!
    It seems that unless the park RH side lights are working there is no gauge lights in the instrument cluster...? What a weird way to wire a vehicle...
    97 Disco 300Tdi, front & rear diff locked, hybrid turbo, full width intercooler, cranked front & rear arms,
    2” dobinson coils, terrafirma shocks, HD steering arms, diff guards, rocksliders, domin8r winch, tank guard

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Finnius View Post
    .... What a weird way to wire a vehicle...
    Yes ... and no!
    Instrument lights power has to come from somewhere and side(or park) lights makes the most sense.
    They wouldn't add too many amps to the fuse's load either.
    Also, separating the LH and RH side lights also makes sense, so that if one fuse blows, at lest some external lighting still exists in certain conditions(darkness/fog/tunnel/etc).
    Not like the old days when the park lights fuse blew and you had no external lights .. and more important no fuse to replace with!
    So yes, without taking into consideration many variables it doesn't seem to make sense.
    But also no! .. when considering the fragile nature of Lucas electrics and their propensity to just randomly cease to exist at any moment.
    LR seemed to have taken precautions to account for the high probability that the electrics WILL suddenly stop, so at least you have some external lights in difficult conditions.

    Also, don't know of any way to set up wiring to have the front park lights run with Ign on(as DRL) AND also remain on with the park light line.
    I suspect you'd have to rewire the front parkers to a separate line running off the engine(most likely fuel shut off solenoid or something).
    Would you want them on with Ign on and engine not running?

    I can't remember exactly, but I think I measured the LEDs at less than 0.1 amp, they are the multi chip cob type bulbs(about 4 chips per globe).
    Tail lights were about the same(I have LED stop tail globes).
    Reason I did that was (number one) my stupid tail or brake globes would regularly blow, say once a month or something. PITA to remove and refit the light fitting.
    I know you don't need to remove the light fitting, but the twist-in bulb holders are also a PITA to remove refit easily. Overall just major pain. So LED stop/tails.
    Side benefit is that when stopped and some light was wanted for a while(eg. camping) the LEDs were more than bright enough for decent ambient glow around camp, but won't drain the battery as quickly as filament globes do with their current draw.

    Do you have a bullbar? If so, does it have park lights(or just indicator) repeaters? If it has indicator repeaters, maybe easier to wire them up as DRL
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

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