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Thread: Will your battery go flat if you don't start car for a few weeks?

  1. #11
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    Hey Ben, I didn't know you had it in a garage, I thought you had it parked 'outside' .. eg. like exposed to weather and public.
    If in a garage and you have power there, then a mains trickle charger is fine.
    Like Drivesafe said, a one hour drive is not enough to bring the battery back up to a really healthy state, and after a week or so(maybe two) it will do the same thing and lose charge again.

    Just a cheap trickle charger would be fine to keep it maintained, and when connected to the main battery, and main battery in good charge, the redarc will do it's job and then connect the aux battery at some point.

    So with brothers(Td5), what I do(only for now) is set up the solar panel(folding camp type) outside out back. Not a lot of sun there during winter due to angle of sun, but even just two hours at about 1amp keep the main battery at a minimum of about 12.0 volts. Over some nicer days(more sun) maybe 12.2v or so. Even when it's only been cloudy, no sun for a few days, this has kept the main battery at 12.0v or above. The panel I have is about 200w or so, and on a cloudy day I've measured about 0.5 amps through to the battery, about 3amps when sun does come out.
    That alone isn't enough to keep the battery above 13.2v(I think) where the redarc cuts the aux battery into the charge loop tho.
    So I've driven the brothers TD5 a couple of days(maybe 1 hr max) and has helped the main battery with better charge, and now when the solar charges the main, it get to 13.2v quicker/easier and the aux also gets a charge too now.

    So, lets say you get a trickle charger(I think about $50-ish) it's probably not enough to charge the main quickly at first, but after a few days(depends on the condition of the main!!) eventually it will. So if you do this, you may notice that for a while at first, the redarc will connect the aux, then shut down again. This will be because the aux is drawing more current too, and the trickle charger isn't enough(at first). Once the main is fine and the aux also then gets a decent charge, it will eventually settle and then it will connect both batteries and stay on .. ie. both batteries will get a good charge with the trickle charger.

    With the cig lighter low down on the dash in a D1, it is (standard) connected to accessories, not direct to battery. But that doesn't mean that someone hasn't rewired it, so you may have constant power there. I thought about that on mine too, but it's also nice to have accessories power like that .. I use it for my tyre pressure monitor(not good to have them always on).
    So for a constant power plug(and USB ports) I got a three gang plug pack and bolted it to the dash in front of the passenger.

    D800E_DSD_1790.jpg
    Very easy to do, I think 19mm holesaw required tho. I have that one wired to the Aux. And the redarc(most of them as I understand) will work in reverse(mine does). So instead of charging the main first, I could plug into that one(aux battery) and once up to good health will then connect the main battery too.

    Also bit of a tip: you said that the aux held 12.5v but main dropped down to 10.2v. First, my understanding of batteries, I think it will be time to replace main soon. That voltage is not good for long term. Maybe drivesafe can confirm.
    But, with 12.5 at the aux, if you had used the override facility of the redarc, you could have started without the need for jumper leads.
    On the redarc unit there is a blue wire connected to nothing(just loose). If you have a switch connected to that wire, going to one lead of a switch, and the other lead of the switch going to the aux terminal post(with a brown wire) on the redarc unit .. and then hit the switch to be ON, it will connect the aux to the main battery, push button jump starting. A momentary switch is probably better as the switch for this, only reason is that you don't forget it ON, and therefore making the isolator useless(in that it doesn't isolate when needed too).

    If you ever need help with it all one day, post COVID period, feel free to come over, or invite me down to help.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Sounds great thanks Arthur, I'm hoping the main battery isn't cooked because it isn't very old. I gave it a couple of very good drives over the weekend so I'll check it tonight. My redarc isolator is an old one but I haven't checked it to see if there is a spare terminal on it that could connect what you're referring to, I'll check that out too. Better option than pulling out the jumper cables I reckon haha thanks Arthur, stay safe!



    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Hey Ben, I didn't know you had it in a garage, I thought you had it parked 'outside' .. eg. like exposed to weather and public.
    If in a garage and you have power there, then a mains trickle charger is fine.
    Like Drivesafe said, a one hour drive is not enough to bring the battery back up to a really healthy state, and after a week or so(maybe two) it will do the same thing and lose charge again.

    Just a cheap trickle charger would be fine to keep it maintained, and when connected to the main battery, and main battery in good charge, the redarc will do it's job and then connect the aux battery at some point.

    So with brothers(Td5), what I do(only for now) is set up the solar panel(folding camp type) outside out back. Not a lot of sun there during winter due to angle of sun, but even just two hours at about 1amp keep the main battery at a minimum of about 12.0 volts. Over some nicer days(more sun) maybe 12.2v or so. Even when it's only been cloudy, no sun for a few days, this has kept the main battery at 12.0v or above. The panel I have is about 200w or so, and on a cloudy day I've measured about 0.5 amps through to the battery, about 3amps when sun does come out.
    That alone isn't enough to keep the battery above 13.2v(I think) where the redarc cuts the aux battery into the charge loop tho.
    So I've driven the brothers TD5 a couple of days(maybe 1 hr max) and has helped the main battery with better charge, and now when the solar charges the main, it get to 13.2v quicker/easier and the aux also gets a charge too now.

    So, lets say you get a trickle charger(I think about $50-ish) it's probably not enough to charge the main quickly at first, but after a few days(depends on the condition of the main!!) eventually it will. So if you do this, you may notice that for a while at first, the redarc will connect the aux, then shut down again. This will be because the aux is drawing more current too, and the trickle charger isn't enough(at first). Once the main is fine and the aux also then gets a decent charge, it will eventually settle and then it will connect both batteries and stay on .. ie. both batteries will get a good charge with the trickle charger.

    With the cig lighter low down on the dash in a D1, it is (standard) connected to accessories, not direct to battery. But that doesn't mean that someone hasn't rewired it, so you may have constant power there. I thought about that on mine too, but it's also nice to have accessories power like that .. I use it for my tyre pressure monitor(not good to have them always on).
    So for a constant power plug(and USB ports) I got a three gang plug pack and bolted it to the dash in front of the passenger.

    D800E_DSD_1790.jpg
    Very easy to do, I think 19mm holesaw required tho. I have that one wired to the Aux. And the redarc(most of them as I understand) will work in reverse(mine does). So instead of charging the main first, I could plug into that one(aux battery) and once up to good health will then connect the main battery too.

    Also bit of a tip: you said that the aux held 12.5v but main dropped down to 10.2v. First, my understanding of batteries, I think it will be time to replace main soon. That voltage is not good for long term. Maybe drivesafe can confirm.
    But, with 12.5 at the aux, if you had used the override facility of the redarc, you could have started without the need for jumper leads.
    On the redarc unit there is a blue wire connected to nothing(just loose). If you have a switch connected to that wire, going to one lead of a switch, and the other lead of the switch going to the aux terminal post(with a brown wire) on the redarc unit .. and then hit the switch to be ON, it will connect the aux to the main battery, push button jump starting. A momentary switch is probably better as the switch for this, only reason is that you don't forget it ON, and therefore making the isolator useless(in that it doesn't isolate when needed too).

    If you ever need help with it all one day, post COVID period, feel free to come over, or invite me down to help.
    '97 Tdi 300
    5sp manual w/ D-gas, Maxi Drive rear, 245/75/16 rubber, dual batteries, other stuff.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    I use three Battery Fighter trickle charges to keep my classics charged up when not being used for a while., via plug in sockets mounted under the grill. Easy to connect. disconnect and always starts up no matter how long since last driving them.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Young Angus View Post
    Sounds great thanks Arthur, I'm hoping the main battery isn't cooked because it isn't very old. ....
    It's sounding in similar condition to brothers' TD5 optimas.
    These are currently(pun intended charge down to about 12.0v for about a week, then drop more quickly from that point if I don't drive it for about an hour or so. Can't do more than that.

    I used to have a charger(NOCO) worked well, kept them charged nicely for a bit more than two weeks, but the cycle has started again(I no longer have the charger).
    Charger was for dads mobility scooter, so he now has it .. more important.
    So why I pinched brothers solar panel. The solar doesn't do the same job as a proper charger with the minimal winter daylight .. etc.

    I think yours will be OK(ie. like brothers, sort of, are) .. just not like new now.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  5. #15
    DiscoMick Guest
    Cigarette plugs and wiring are too light for battery chargers and larger solar panels, as others have said.
    I have found it best to fit 50A Anderson plugs direct to all battery terminals. All our chargers and solar panels also have 50A plugs and suitable wiring. This means they can be switched around.
    Battery cells sulphate if they are not regularly charged to 'excite' the cells.
    A relation has an 80W panel.on his garage roof to.connect to vehicles and camper. Works well, charge during day and rest at night.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoMick View Post
    Cigarette plugs and wiring are too light for battery chargers and larger solar panels, as others have said.
    ......
    Noted by Drivesafe too, but a cheap-n-cheery <1amp trickle will be fine for a 'maintenance mode' type operation .. eg. after a bit of a drive.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Geraldton WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoMick View Post
    Cigarette plugs and wiring are too light for battery chargers and larger solar panels, as others have said.
    I have found it best to fit 50A Anderson plugs direct to all battery terminals. All our chargers and solar panels also have 50A plugs and suitable wiring. This means they can be switched around.
    Battery cells sulphate if they are not regularly charged to 'excite' the cells.
    A relation has an 80W panel.on his garage roof to.connect to vehicles and camper. Works well, charge during day and rest at night.
    I have a 120w panel on my shed roof that runs through an MPPT controller and it keeps up to 4x 100AH spare deep cell batteries in tip top condition even in winter
    You only get one shot at life, Aim well

    2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
    2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
    4.6m Quintrex boat
    20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    West Victoria
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    I have used a 10W solar panel for years to maintain my cars battery, the panel is on the roof of the garage with the wire extended to where the car sits when parked.

    This ad is for two panels, I use one per car. I have no affiliation with this seller other than a very happy customer.
    2x 12V 10W Solar Panel Kit Megavolt Caravan Camping Power MONO Battery Charging 501560105933 | eBay

    When I have been for a drive to shopping or 4x4ing, I put the vehicle in the shed and connect the panel via a hidden Anderson plug and leave it until I drive it next. Because of the low charge rate I don't even use a controller, just let the batteries regulate themselves and they last for years.

    Low cost to buy and no on going cost for many years of use. I think my panels are about 6 years old and keep my Optima 815cca batteries ready to go.
    Neale

    85 Range Rover Ute (Project in pieces)
    89 Range Rover Classic (Black Thunder)
    93 200tdi Disco,(OGRE)
    96 300tdi Disco, DEAD MOTOR
    04 Nissan Patrol with ALL the fruit
    09 Cub Daintree Kamperoo
    12 VE II Commodore Ute DD

  9. #19
    DiscoMick Guest
    Our Defender started okay today after being parked in a carport, so the solar panel on the roof rack was in shade, for 10 days. Don't have a reading on it, so I guess that doesn't mean much though.

  10. #20
    Join Date
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    So is the consensus a half decent trickle charger is enough to eventually get my main battery up to better health and keep it there long term more so than a solar setup since I'm parked in a garage with power? Is this a safe thing to just leave on all the time or should I be putting it on a timer?

    Are there better chargers I can buy or is a cheap'ish one good enough?
    '97 Tdi 300
    5sp manual w/ D-gas, Maxi Drive rear, 245/75/16 rubber, dual batteries, other stuff.

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