Brake symptoms

Thinking ahead, to replace the vac pump I need to lock #1 cylinder at top dead centre. Tomorrow I will have aftermarket timing pins but today I tried a 9.5mm drill bit for the injection pump. I turned a full cycle but it didn't really feel as if the bit slotted in anywhere. Is there a bit of a knack to this?

Also, the workshop manual says I need a plastic scraper and "a suitable gasket removal spray". I can only find metal scrapers and nothing meeting the description "gasket removal spray". Any suggestions please?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

retrofit a 12V vac pump and close off the port on the mechanical one.

power via a relay and the ign wire on the injector pump. 20 minute job

For GM DC 12V Electric Vacuum Pump Power Brake Booster Auxiliary Pump Assembly | eBay

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That's tempting actually. Sound like you've done it - did you take any photos? As well as wiring it I would have to mount it somewhere and connect it to the valve on the booster?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dogman

That's tempting actually. Sound like you've done it - did you take any photos? As well as wiring it I would have to mount it somewhere and connect it to the valve on the booster?

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yep, with varying degrees of, Ge2t this done now and get it moving in 20 minutes (and a little luck I happened to have enough bits to bodge the vac connection) through to all harnessed up with vac switches and white man magic.

no, but theres a convenient place to mount it on the back of the drivers side wheel arch and the relay is quick and easy, add a fuse and its a short stop to splice into the primary fuse box, the glowplug feed, or the battery itself.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Old Farang

<snip>Most systems pull around 15"Hg to 18"Hg<snip>

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Now I have a gauge. The following are measured at the end of the vac hose, where it plugs onto the valve in the booster:

At idle: Needle rapidly back and forth 13-18"Hg.

With throttle: steady 19"Hg.

This the first real evidence imo. Everything else is best guesses based on my fairly vague descriptions. So I am leaning back towards the booster.

I had the booster out the other day - when I push the thing in all the way, it makes a bit of a groaning noise as it comes back out. Normal?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dogman

Now I have a gauge. The following are measured at the end of the vac hose, where it plugs onto the valve in the booster:

At idle: Needle rapidly back and forth 13-18"Hg.

With throttle: steady 19"Hg.

This the first real evidence imo. Everything else is best guesses based on my fairly vague descriptions. So I am leaning back towards the booster.

I had the booster out the other day - when I push the thing in all the way, it makes a bit of a groaning noise as it comes back out. Normal?

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That's a good vacuum. There is a big spring inside that pushes it back, but it should not make a noise. Mostly, the groaning comes from what it costs to fix it!

I found a booster at a local breaking yard for NZD$115. I am now road legal for
another 6 months. Thanks to everyone who replied.

I learned some things.

1. Get a second opinion:

I only had the second inspection because the place was open when an intermittent
electrical problem was behaving well. I might well have replaced one or both sets of
discs and the first place still wouldn't have been able to sign off because it wouldn't
have made a blind bit of difference. Also the first place came up with 9 other reasons for
rejection, none of which rated a mention 20 days later.

2. Half a brain? Work on a disco!

Even without much experience it is possible to do a fair bit of your own work on these
vehicles. You need a few basic tools to begin with, but you will start to save money pretty
soon. I was told by a brake and clutch place that resolving this kind of issue was likely to
run to NZD$500-700.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dogman

I found a booster at a local breaking yard for NZD$115. I am now road legal for
another 6 months. Thanks to everyone who replied.

I learned some things.

1. Get a second opinion:

I only had the second inspection because the place was open when an intermittent
electrical problem was behaving well. I might well have replaced one or both sets of
discs and the first place still wouldn't have been able to sign off because it wouldn't
have made a blind bit of difference. Also the first place came up with 9 other reasons for
rejection, none of which rated a mention 20 days later.

2. Half a brain? Work on a disco!

Even without much experience it is possible to do a fair bit of your own work on these
vehicles. You need a few basic tools to begin with, but you will start to save money pretty
soon. I was told by a brake and clutch place that resolving this kind of issue was likely to
run to NZD$500-700.

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Well done, even for a Kiwi! [bigrolf]