Thinking ahead, to replace the vac pump I need to lock #1 cylinder at top dead centre. Tomorrow I will have aftermarket timing pins but today I tried a 9.5mm drill bit for the injection pump. I turned a full cycle but it didn't really feel as if the bit slotted in anywhere. Is there a bit of a knack to this?
Also, the workshop manual says I need a plastic scraper and "a suitable gasket removal spray". I can only find metal scrapers and nothing meeting the description "gasket removal spray". Any suggestions please?
yep, with varying degrees of, Ge2t this done now and get it moving in 20 minutes (and a little luck I happened to have enough bits to bodge the vac connection) through to all harnessed up with vac switches and white man magic.
no, but theres a convenient place to mount it on the back of the drivers side wheel arch and the relay is quick and easy, add a fuse and its a short stop to splice into the primary fuse box, the glowplug feed, or the battery itself.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Now I have a gauge. The following are measured at the end of the vac hose, where it plugs onto the valve in the booster:
At idle: Needle rapidly back and forth 13-18"Hg.
With throttle: steady 19"Hg.
This the first real evidence imo. Everything else is best guesses based on my fairly vague descriptions. So I am leaning back towards the booster.
I had the booster out the other day - when I push the thing in all the way, it makes a bit of a groaning noise as it comes back out. Normal?
I found a booster at a local breaking yard for NZD$115. I am now road legal for
another 6 months. Thanks to everyone who replied.
I learned some things.
1. Get a second opinion:
I only had the second inspection because the place was open when an intermittent
electrical problem was behaving well. I might well have replaced one or both sets of
discs and the first place still wouldn't have been able to sign off because it wouldn't
have made a blind bit of difference. Also the first place came up with 9 other reasons for
rejection, none of which rated a mention 20 days later.
2. Half a brain? Work on a disco!
Even without much experience it is possible to do a fair bit of your own work on these
vehicles. You need a few basic tools to begin with, but you will start to save money pretty
soon. I was told by a brake and clutch place that resolving this kind of issue was likely to
run to NZD$500-700.
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