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Thread: Brake symptoms

  1. #21
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    Thinking ahead, to replace the vac pump I need to lock #1 cylinder at top dead centre. Tomorrow I will have aftermarket timing pins but today I tried a 9.5mm drill bit for the injection pump. I turned a full cycle but it didn't really feel as if the bit slotted in anywhere. Is there a bit of a knack to this?

    Also, the workshop manual says I need a plastic scraper and "a suitable gasket removal spray". I can only find metal scrapers and nothing meeting the description "gasket removal spray". Any suggestions please?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    retrofit a 12V vac pump and close off the port on the mechanical one.

    power via a relay and the ign wire on the injector pump. 20 minute job

    For GM DC 12V Electric Vacuum Pump Power Brake Booster Auxiliary Pump Assembly | eBay
    That's tempting actually. Sound like you've done it - did you take any photos? As well as wiring it I would have to mount it somewhere and connect it to the valve on the booster?

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogman View Post
    That's tempting actually. Sound like you've done it - did you take any photos? As well as wiring it I would have to mount it somewhere and connect it to the valve on the booster?
    yep, with varying degrees of, Ge2t this done now and get it moving in 20 minutes (and a little luck I happened to have enough bits to bodge the vac connection) through to all harnessed up with vac switches and white man magic.

    no, but theres a convenient place to mount it on the back of the drivers side wheel arch and the relay is quick and easy, add a fuse and its a short stop to splice into the primary fuse box, the glowplug feed, or the battery itself.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

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  4. #24
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    Vacuum reading "Hg

    Quote Originally Posted by Old Farang View Post
    <snip>Most systems pull around 15"Hg to 18"Hg<snip>
    Now I have a gauge. The following are measured at the end of the vac hose, where it plugs onto the valve in the booster:

    At idle: Needle rapidly back and forth 13-18"Hg.

    With throttle: steady 19"Hg.

    This the first real evidence imo. Everything else is best guesses based on my fairly vague descriptions. So I am leaning back towards the booster.

    I had the booster out the other day - when I push the thing in all the way, it makes a bit of a groaning noise as it comes back out. Normal?

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogman View Post
    Now I have a gauge. The following are measured at the end of the vac hose, where it plugs onto the valve in the booster:

    At idle: Needle rapidly back and forth 13-18"Hg.

    With throttle: steady 19"Hg.

    This the first real evidence imo. Everything else is best guesses based on my fairly vague descriptions. So I am leaning back towards the booster.

    I had the booster out the other day - when I push the thing in all the way, it makes a bit of a groaning noise as it comes back out. Normal?
    That's a good vacuum. There is a big spring inside that pushes it back, but it should not make a noise. Mostly, the groaning comes from what it costs to fix it!

  6. #26
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    Thread Summary.

    I found a booster at a local breaking yard for NZD$115. I am now road legal for
    another 6 months. Thanks to everyone who replied.

    I learned some things.

    1. Get a second opinion:

    I only had the second inspection because the place was open when an intermittent
    electrical problem was behaving well. I might well have replaced one or both sets of
    discs and the first place still wouldn't have been able to sign off because it wouldn't
    have made a blind bit of difference. Also the first place came up with 9 other reasons for
    rejection, none of which rated a mention 20 days later.

    2. Half a brain? Work on a disco!

    Even without much experience it is possible to do a fair bit of your own work on these
    vehicles. You need a few basic tools to begin with, but you will start to save money pretty
    soon. I was told by a brake and clutch place that resolving this kind of issue was likely to
    run to NZD$500-700.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogman View Post
    I found a booster at a local breaking yard for NZD$115. I am now road legal for
    another 6 months. Thanks to everyone who replied.

    I learned some things.

    1. Get a second opinion:

    I only had the second inspection because the place was open when an intermittent
    electrical problem was behaving well. I might well have replaced one or both sets of
    discs and the first place still wouldn't have been able to sign off because it wouldn't
    have made a blind bit of difference. Also the first place came up with 9 other reasons for
    rejection, none of which rated a mention 20 days later.

    2. Half a brain? Work on a disco!

    Even without much experience it is possible to do a fair bit of your own work on these
    vehicles. You need a few basic tools to begin with, but you will start to save money pretty
    soon. I was told by a brake and clutch place that resolving this kind of issue was likely to
    run to NZD$500-700.
    Well done, even for a Kiwi!

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