300Tdi death rattle?

Hi again all,

Finally worked up the enthusiasm to have another look at the valve gear. Removed rocker shaft and valve lash caps and examined the valve springs, collets etc. as best I could with a strong torch, and took photos. I can't see or feel anything wrong. All the springs, spring caps and collets appear to be OK to me. Can any of you guys see anything amiss?

Re. Rover-56, Terry, I looked up valve head stand down in RAVE and that's something I didn't check before replacing the head with the original 3-hole thickness gasket. (due of course to ignorance). Now, I have access to a diesel compression gauge so, if I were to find high compression in one cylinder, what do I do to fix it please?

Also while looking up valve head stand down, I noticed the following section on measuring piston crown 'stand proud' (protrusion above the head surface), and found something else interesting I didn't know: that head gaskets come in a 0 hole thickness as well as the 1, 2 & 3 hole sizes I was aware of. And that the 0 hole version is in fact the thickest version!

So, knowledgeable ones (Blknight, JC etc.), if I were to pull the head again and perform the relevant measurements, is there a chance that a 0 hole gasket might solve my problems? Or should I just bite the bullet and fork out for another new head if I want to get rid of this issue for good?

Would much appreciate your suggestions.

Have you checked the timing with a dial gauge ?
300s can get funky rattles if advanced too far.
Check the actual plunger lift and report back

Steve

i was going to suggest checking the plunger height as none of those valves look off but as thats been said.

slowly press the valves in and make sure none of them are binding or the rockers are sticking on the shaft.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

i was going to suggest checking the plunger height as none of those valves look off but as thats been said.

slowly press the valves in and make sure none of them are binding or the rockers are sticking on the shaft.

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Thanks guys,

Will check the timing again with the flywheel pin and 3/8" drill bit. Don't have access to a plunger lift/dial gauge set-up at the moment - maybe in a couple of weeks.

Dave, re. pressing the valves: do you mean with some sort of lever arrangement? Tried pressing with maximum thumb pressure but couldn't sense any movement in any of them. Don't think it's a sticking rocker - the bloody things swing all over the place when I'm trying to put the rocker shaft back in place! But will definitely check them all.

Many thanks for your patience and suggestions.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Leo109

Thanks guys,

Will check the timing again with the flywheel pin and 3/8" drill bit. Don't have access to a plunger lift/dial gauge set-up at the moment - maybe in a couple of weeks.

Dave, re. pressing the valves: do you mean with some sort of lever arrangement? Tried pressing with maximum thumb pressure but couldn't sense any movement in any of them. Don't think it's a sticking rocker - the bloody things swing all over the place when I'm trying to put the rocker shaft back in place! But will definitely check them all.

Many thanks for your patience and suggestions.

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yep, I usually just run a chain down to the chassis put a shackle in it then use a tyre lever and a socket.

after you do bdc on each piston do it at TDC.

3/8" drill bit

I would be amazed if your timing was close
My guess is the rattle is the classic 300 over advance

S

Apologies for the above - not very helpful

In the absence of measuring the timing accurately
Try regarding it just a scooch and see what happens to your noise

S

I had a knock that sounded very similar.
Went through the whole elimination of vacuum pump noises, fuel pump noises, timing knock/rattle, advance etc, rocker arms, pushrods, valves, followers/rollers etc, then moved to the big ends all to no avail.
It ended up being slight piston slap on one of the pistons.