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Thread: 300Tdi Rear Engine Lifting Bracket

  1. #1
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    300Tdi Rear Engine Lifting Bracket

    Hi all,

    I'm about to remove a 300Tdi from a Discovery (a parts car due to uneconomical-to-repair airbag issues). The engine is destined to end up in another vehicle. I've made a front lifting point conceptually similar to ETC8031, but have run into issues at the rear of the motor. Firstly, I can't see a thing at the rear as the motor is pressed into the firewall. Secondly, the rear lifting bracket ETC8036 (or a homemade equivalent) will foul on the body as the engine is located so far back in the body.



    Beyond a lifting strap around the motor (an option which could happen yet), is there a recommended way to bolt on a lifting point to the rear of a 300Tdi in a Disco? I'm extremely reticent to undo any head bolts to use as lifting points as there's no evidence of a need to remove the head for another purpose.

    A couple of other thoughts I've had:

    Can anybody give me an idea of what these bolts, located on the cold side (right hand side) of the block just below the head, are for? I haven't yet found them in the engine overhaul manual. How deep is the thread in the block?



    The other alternative I'm considering is using a couple of the fasteners normally used to hold on the manifolds as it looks like there might be an exhaust leak near cylinders 1 and 2.


    And thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

    Cheers,
    Martin
    "Serenity" 1964 Series IIA 109" ̶P̶e̶t̶r̶o̶l̶ 300 Tdi - under restoration
    "Kaylee" 1953 Series I 80" - waiting patiently

  2. #2
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    I just recently removed a 300tdi from my D1. What I did was remove the rear top bolt that holds the engine mount to the block on each side and used a length of chain and longer bolts. I think that they are 10mm bolts and about 60mm or so long did the job. I removed number 3 injector as the chain would possibly do damage otherwise. Just place some clean rag or paper towel in the injector port to keep it clean. I had a piece of chain here that did the job, I think about 1.2 metres long or so. Good luck.
    1996 Disco 1 300TDI manual - Lucille a cantankerous red head! :D
    1997 Disco 1 300TDI Auto - sold

  3. #3
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    sorry can't help re the removal.
    But second pic green arrows point to the cam follower/guide locating bolts. There should be 8 of them all along the same height level.

    Don't use them for strapping the motor.

    As for the rear lifting bracket .. I'm pretty sure mine is still attached to block. Can't be 100% sure, but I'll check tomorrow when there is some light. But I'm sure I've seen that it's there and doesn't foul the bodywork.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  4. #4
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    Thank you both for your responses.

    Picking up the engine mount sounds like a good plan, it is certain to be able to take the load. Unlike cam follower locating bolts! I won't be touching those, glad I asked!

    I'll have a go and see what happens.

    Cheers,
    Martin
    "Serenity" 1964 Series IIA 109" ̶P̶e̶t̶r̶o̶l̶ 300 Tdi - under restoration
    "Kaylee" 1953 Series I 80" - waiting patiently

  5. #5
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    Martin, I'm pretty sure the rear bracket is angled forward to clear the firewall and I'm also pretty sure I have one lying around here somewhere. PM me and I'll post it to you.
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

  6. #6
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    use a sling and snot it around the base of the sump and flywheel housing, if you put the eye on the driver side level on the back corner of the block you'll get it easy, helps to pull the #3,4 injector lines and secure it in place between the 2 injectors or pull the injectors and stuff the holes to keep em clean.

    use an engine leveller on your crane and you'll get it in one.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselLSE View Post
    Martin, I'm pretty sure the rear bracket is angled forward to clear the firewall and I'm also pretty sure I have one lying around here somewhere. PM me and I'll post it to you.
    Thank you very much for the kind offer, I really appreciate it.

    I've ended up going with a sling around the rear of the block, as Dave suggested. The motor is rigged, just about ready to detach from the gearbox.

    Thank you all for the responses!

    Cheers,
    Martin
    "Serenity" 1964 Series IIA 109" ̶P̶e̶t̶r̶o̶l̶ 300 Tdi - under restoration
    "Kaylee" 1953 Series I 80" - waiting patiently

  8. #8
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    We removed a 300tdi recently. We made a bracket that used 2 of the bolts in your 3rd pic. The bracket is still on the motor at the engine Reconditioners.

    We removed both engine mounts and brackets to lower the motor enough to get to the top bell housing bolts.

    Here’s a pic
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
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    REMLR # 137

  9. #9
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    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  10. #10
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    That looks like probably the simplest solution if the head is coming off for another reason. I've avoided undoing the head bolts as I don't think I need to take the head off this engine.

    Cheers,
    Martin
    "Serenity" 1964 Series IIA 109" ̶P̶e̶t̶r̶o̶l̶ 300 Tdi - under restoration
    "Kaylee" 1953 Series I 80" - waiting patiently

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