Did you do the tests in the G labelled section of the troubleshooting section?
Had to locate your posts related to this that I read a while ago .. couldn't remember the issue.
have you checked the motor for reliable operation?
It's a Rover electrical item .. assume it's playing up!
If the switch is a problem, then using one of the other switches(that aren't a problem) will show this.
ie. pass front switch(they're all the same) will work if your current drivers switch is faulty(intermittent).
You tried the spare switch and does the same, so better to move on and check motor.
If yours is a later model D1 motors are all the same too, that is they will all fit, just that orientation may be reversed which just means that you may not get the assembly back into the door.
But with the assembly out and if you're willing to test for a short time in your drive .. use the motor from one other door to the drivers.
Does the drivers now have the intermittent issue still? Does the lift mechanism that you fitted the suss driver motor now have the intermittent issue.
Problem with intermittent issues is their nature .. you can't predict when they occur, but does it happen when wet/damp/humid .. suspect wiring.
I've got a D2 in parts and looking at the very sharp tight radius curve of the wires at the motor body going in, easy to see stress on the plastic sheath .. assume that wiring can be intermittently continuous.
Depending on the year(or VIN number) D1's and D2's can use the same motors, but I think plugs may be different. Yep they are! .. but easy to sort that.
(mine is a very late .... 98 build) so same motors are used. Cheaper than earlier ones new .. but also at a wrecker, D2's seem to be more plentiful.
So if yours is earlier .. sorry can't help .. no experience.
If's a later(VIN MA ... whatever) then you can 'mix and match'
if you want to try say the pass front, you can remove the motor body from the gear head(plastic) and mix them.
So for example if you switch them around:
if it's all done external to the doors, just install and test. You just can't mix them and install into the door(orientation is wrong and wont fit). But externally, will go up and down when switch is used.
If the intermittent issue pops up on the 'other' lift mechanism then you will almost certainly say it's the motor or wiring at fault .. not switch or ECU for them.
if you go to all this trouble with removing and mixing bits and nothing shows up, or the drivers window is still playing up, could be the wiring through the A pillar. Chafed, stressed .. etc.
Can't help re the use of a DPDT switch, sorry.
Just trying to toss some ideas, and reason is, it could be something you never thought of:
I have some D2's (and my D1). Tracking some issues with the D2(when it was brothers) so not much time to do it. Complaint was, inside door handle not working and window intermittent.
Door handle really loose, thinking easy fix, cable not connected. And for sure it wasn't. Window I had to trace wires and stuff, took too long car needed for weekend, abandoned. All I did was fix the door handle.
Door handle went loose, and not working on first try later on again.
After weekend, I got the car again and checked and tested. and door handle did same. When cable was fitted was a bit stiff to pull handle, but not majorly so. Every pull saw the cable end pop out of the fitting to the lock!
Pulled cable off and found cable immovable by hand! inner core can't be moved by hand(ie. half seized) .. used a spare and all nice and loosey goosey .. fitted cable and bingo door handle now works.
Sorry for the rant, and you're thinking how is this related. The clue to the window was the stiffness of the cable. so the idea came into the head to remove the window winder mechanism and check for 'stiffness' and sure enough it was super stiff compared to my spares car's mechanism.
Further looking into this stiffness issue I found about 2cm of built up mud at the bottom of the doors' inside!
Anyhow, window winder mechanism was changed with the spare and works a charm. Sprayed the old one and is better .. can't see in the pivot, but maybe its rust.
Motor fits the driver side no problem(it's a D2 tho).
is it possible that your window mechanism is binding up intermittently then releasing. Is the action of the motor a wee bit slow when it's working?
Once again sorry for the long reply .. again, just trying to throw out ideas. Stuff like slow motor when it is working can be dying motor, or frayed wires ... bumps and turns may cause it to work .. or not .. ie. intermittent.
spray plugs, spray motor .. WD or Inox or whatever .. does it help.
is the rubber gaiter protecting the wires to the doors insides flattened severely? ... could be a clue as to what the issue is staring back at 'ya.
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