Thread: Tailshaft reversion donut->UJ: specific questions.

Assuming the splines are the same, the difference is that the spacer is seperate in the early ones and a part of the flange in the later ones - you can use either type interchangably.

Yours looks early type.

If I can't get the centralising peg and the three bolt flange off the back diff myself I may have to take the truck to my nearest professional workshop about 10-15km away. Since I've no rear propshaft I'd have to drive it there with the diff lock in.

I'm always seeing dire warnings about this that and the other but I never know how seriously to take them. The owner's manual certainly says that putting the diff lock in when it's not necessary risks "winding up" the transmission. Otoh I've had people say the risk would be minimal for a one-off trip like this.

Are manuals and autos equally prone to "wind up"?

Are there driving behaviours I could avoid to minimise the chance of problems?

Come on you wise heads, gimme a steer on this!

Transfer case wind up happens because the rear axle takes a slightly tighter line round corners than the front axle, therefore travelling less distance. The centre diff normally compensates for this. When the centre diff is locked on gravel, small amounts of wheel slip compensate instead. Issues can and will occur if the CDL is engaged on bitumen. However, if you don't have a connection between the rear axle and the transfer case as the rear prop shaft has been removed, this cannot be an issue as the rear axle isn't attached. It's just a front wheel drive and the centre diff isn't needed and prevents motion, so the diff lock needs to be engaged.

In other words, if you don't have a rear prop shaft fitted, you cannot wind your transfer case up.

There could be other issues, maybe the front diff won't enjoy taking the whole load, especially at high speed. I have no idea whether this would be an issue or not on a Disco, it's a bit too modern for my knowledge.

Cheers,
Martin

Originally Posted by dogman

If I can't get the centralising peg and the three bolt flange off the back diff myself I may have to take the truck to my nearest professional workshop about 10-15km away. Since I've no rear propshaft I'd have to drive it there with the diff lock in.

I'm always seeing dire warnings about this that and the other but I never know how seriously to take them. The owner's manual certainly says that putting the diff lock in when it's not necessary risks "winding up" the transmission. Otoh I've had people say the risk would be minimal for a one-off trip like this.

Are manuals and autos equally prone to "wind up"?

Are there driving behaviours I could avoid to minimise the chance of problems?

Come on you wise heads, gimme a steer on this!

I'm guessing you've not seen any of my responses to you.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

I'm guessing you've not seen any of my responses to you.

I saw them all.

The 1st one (previous thread) I glossed over because it seemed to have to do with d2's. I see now there isn't much difference d2->d1 for this conversion at least.

On this thread I was just waiting to see if anybody else weighed in. I already knew about the spacer. The splines were my concern but I'm satisfied I have the correct flange now.

Your latest reply (previous thread) has a link to a different page on slunnie.com and this one I found really helpful. In fact I will be pointing the guys at the garage to it next week probably. Seems like the flange and spacer are the only two parts required. Understanding that makes it all seem a lot simpler.

The help on here is incredible. So much info in fact that without much experience it takes me a while to get my head round it all in a way that seems simple enough and relevant to my particular situation :-)

Originally Posted by dogman

I saw them all.

The 1st one (previous thread) I glossed over because it seemed to have to do with d2's. I see now there isn't much difference d2->d1 for this conversion at least.

On this thread I was just waiting to see if anybody else weighed in. I already knew about the spacer. The splines were my concern but I'm satisfied I have the correct flange now.

Your latest reply (previous thread) has a link to a different page on slunnie.com and this one I found really helpful. In fact I will be pointing the guys at the garage to it next week probably. Seems like the flange and spacer are the only two parts required. Understanding that makes it all seem a lot simpler.

The help on here is incredible. So much info in fact that without much experience it takes me a while to get my head round it all in a way that seems simple enough and relevant to my particular situation :-)

The Disco2 and the Disco1 are very very similar. The big difference is how the flange bolts to the pinion, the D2 uses a screw but the flange is interchangable - D1 to D1 is exactly the same. You're basically just putting a front 4 bolt flange on the rear, and the front and rear diffs are the same, you could swap them around if you really wanted to. The splines are the same too, I think the only trap there is if you manage to somehow score a really old 10 spline pinion flange from an old Landrover, but you do have the right one. For the 3 bolt flange, they are near impossible to get out, even with pullers. Given it wont be reused then there is no probs in just cutting it, my feedback is that quite a few have resorted to this. Then you can do it all at home. Its a very easy conversion to do at home, the only hard parts are getting the spigot out as you've found and getting leverage on the pinion flange bolt if you're not on a hoist or ramps.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

The Disco2 and the Disco1 are very very similar. The big difference is how the flange bolts to the pinion, the D2 uses a screw but the flange is interchangable - D1 to D1 is exactly the same. You're basically just putting a front 4 bolt flange on the rear, and the front and rear diffs are the same, you could swap them around if you really wanted to. The splines are the same too, I think the only trap there is if you manage to somehow score a really old 10 spline pinion flange from an old Landrover, but you do have the right one. For the 3 bolt flange, they are near impossible to get out, even with pullers. Given it wont be reused then there is no probs in just cutting it, my feedback is that quite a few have resorted to this. Then you can do it all at home. Its a very easy conversion to do at home, the only hard parts are getting the spigot out as you've found and getting leverage on the pinion flange bolt if you're not on a hoist or ramps.

Yep, I had to use an angle grinder to cut my old flange off. The rest is very straight forward and simple. I did went to uni joints six months or more ago and regret it one bit.