110 psi on one cylinder is most definitely a concern. Diesel will not combust at that pressure.
post all cylinder readings. might help to work out the problem, ie. low between 2 & 3 possible head gasket failure etc. etc.
Valve clearances and cam timing? 110 is a bit of a worry
'93 D1 V8 auto
'93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
'95 D1 V8 auto......gone
'86 V8 RRC.....gone
110 psi on one cylinder is most definitely a concern. Diesel will not combust at that pressure.
post all cylinder readings. might help to work out the problem, ie. low between 2 & 3 possible head gasket failure etc. etc.
Hey fellas,
Thanks for responding.
Cylinders 1,2,4 (cylinder 1 being the the front one, i hope this is right) had cold compression of about 110- 130psi
Cylinder 3 had compression of about 400psi!
I am currently working on getting this thread removed as incidentally there are two going for the same issue.
If you respond, could you please respond on https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-1-a/292887-confuzzled-d1-wont-start.html
More information on the issue will be there.
Kind regards,
Kingfordy
Yes. #1 is the first cylinder from the front.
Those comp figures.... The 400 one is about right, depending on the gauge. 348 according to LR. That figure relies on everything else being correct. The others are the concern. I would say that the valves aren't closing, which brings me back to a timing belt failure. 3 bolts gets the rocker cover off. Then you'll know something.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
G'day All,
Thank you for your time and efforts trying to help me solve my issues.
Always much appreciated.
Updates:
Q: Workingonit: Was the compression test a leak down test or measure of pressure as the engine rotates? You sound very capable so I'm guessing you've had the rocker cover off to observed all valves moving correctly when hand rotating before firing up.
A: it was a measure of pressure as the engine rotates.
No,i hadnt thought of taking the rocker cover off and checking for valves moving correctly when hand rotating.
So i did this.
All valves were moving correctly. Couldnt see any issues there.
Good suggestion
Q: Tins: When the belt was done was the tensioner stud upgraded to the thicker one?
A: Dunno actually, i just used the one in the kit.
My tensioner definitely wasnt busted like the one in your picture.
My rockers and pushrods werent bent or busted. I had them out and definitely checked. They looked good.
Q: Rick1970: Valve clearances and cam timing? 110 is a bit of a worry
A: Good call, i hadnt thought to check valve clearances.
So i did, they were fine and spaced as per the manual. 0.200mm from memory
Most of you come back to the timing belt, fair, though i am pretty comfortable it wasnt this, as when i replaced it, the old one, though worn, was in place, still functioning and all markers indicated correct timing. Pin was in the bell housing, bolt was locking the FIP, all marker and pulleys aligned and in TDC.
I just cant see this being the reason for failure.
In Short:
Im heavily leading towards failed piston rings.
I just cant find anything else and i feel ive checked everything now.
I even took the injectors off, connected them up and turned over the engine to check the FIP was supplying enough pressure atomise fuel, and a lovely fine mist was produced... was an interesting thing to do actually.
I went and spoke to my local mechanic, whose pretty good, though doesnt do LR much.
He suggested a few things (like checking for injector spray to assess FIP, check tappets and valve clearances, which i did)
As per Rick1970, he said psi of 110 etc is not good enough to combust the fuel. 400psi he was happy with. But i only have one chamber giving me this.
He thinks i have more serious problems too.
Researching piston removal and ring changes etc ive decided is too much effort and money for no guaranteed outcome.
So ive written the death certificate.
Bit sad..
but time to move on.
The Good News..
Ive already bought another 300tdi. yesterday.
good price. $1.8g
needs some work, but all the main bits are functioning.
I can do the rest and give it a spit and polish.
The 300tdi we've been working on in this thread will get new life through Organ Donation.
Thanks again.
RS
Rings failing on three cylinders simultaneously seems unlikely though?
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Apparently the oil pump screw on the D2 (accessed from the oil sump) is known to rattle off. Obviously resulting in failed oil pumpage.
q) is this a known issue for D1 also?
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