My Young bloke just had the same problem, pushrod had punched through the clutch fork.
Colin
Way back in my army days we had problems with the front brakes on IIAs. These had two front wheel cylinders each wheel, mounted top and bottom.The flex hose fed into the top cyl, there was a pipe top to bottom, and a bleeder at the very bottom. You can probably guess that we had difficulty getting a decent pedal. They even went to the trouble of getting someone from Girling (? I think. Brake 'expert' at any rate ) to come and look. His solution was to unbolt the backing plate and turn it upside down to bleed and then put it back. My suggestion that it would be quicker to invert the whole car was not well received. Stupidest thing I had ever heard, up until then. I can't remember how it was resolved, or if they were all like that. John's suggestion might have worked on those as well.
Dunno. Always assumed it was a damper of some sort.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
My Young bloke just had the same problem, pushrod had punched through the clutch fork.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
'58 Series II (sold)
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C
I think it's the pivot that punches though the fork, but the result would be the same, gearbox out.
Our problem with clutch bleeding could have been avoided by not disconnecting the line from the slave.
We did the clutch in the garage, front wheels on ramps, having done it I'm going to buy a host, I'm to old for this crawling around under cars caper, and I don't consider myself that old 😁
Tony
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
'58 Series II (sold)
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
I wonder what the damper achieves?
Seems like technology for technology's sake.
My Defender is OK without it.
Tony
Well, it certainly puts a damper on your mood if you have to bleed the clutch.
I wonder how much difference there is between the two vehicles, in the mechanical advantage of the cylinders and the fork. I would have thought none. And why is it only fitted to the diesels?
I suppose there could be some NVH reason.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
The damper slows clutch release to avoid "dropping the clutch" inadvertantly. A lot of modern manual cars have one in the circuit.
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