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Thread: Bleeding 300TDi R380 clutch

  1. #1
    TonyC is online now Master Silver Subscriber
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    Bleeding 300TDi R380 clutch

    Hi All,
    We are try to bleed the clutch on a 300TDi/R380 D1

    No joy with pumping fluid from the master, but if you take the line off and hold your finger over the end so there's a vacuum when the push rod is released then your get flow on the next pump.

    Line are not blocked.

    Have tried pumping fluid back from the slave.

    Have tried a pressure bleed from the master.

    We have got a poor pedal.

    At no point have we been able to get a good flow, and it feels like it still has air in it.

    The car is sitting nose up, front wheel on ramps.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks.

    Tony

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Last time i had this issue, I pressure bled it from the slave cylinder. Simply used an oil syringe (make sure it is absolutely free of mineral oil - I cleaned it with detergent and water followed by metho). Fill with brake fluid and connect to bleed point with rubber tubing and push fluid through.

    Do it a bit at a time, closing the bleed point in between each push, as you don't want to overflow the master cylinder. Syringe excess fluid out of the M/C.

    I suspect your problem is that the car is not level. My problem was that the car was nose down in a sloping driveway.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    I did mine nose up on ramps. I didn't have any syringes so i couldn't do it John's way but I reckon it would work. I couldn't get anything through at all at first. I made a cap up with a Schrader valve in it and gave it a little compressed air, but I do mean a little. That got a bit of flow, but lousy pedal. so, I removed the bleeder screw entirely and let it drip, keeping the fluid topped up. Maybe 40 minutes of this and I put the screw back in and had a reasonable pedal so it went for a drive and by the time I got back it was good.

    All the above should be seen through the lens of about ten years. Clutch still works, memory I'm not so sure of.

    I never understood why it was so recalcitrant. It's not as if I've never bled anything before.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

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    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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    Have you replaced the Clutch master Cyl ? Is it adjusted properly.

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    TonyC is online now Master Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazzle218 View Post
    Have you replaced the Clutch master Cyl ? Is it adjusted properly.
    We had the master out and disassembled.

    There is no adjustment on the master or the push rod.

    Is the adjustment in the pedal? I had the young Fella doing the head stands in the footwell.

    Tony

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    TonyC is online now Master Silver Subscriber
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    It's much better this morning.

    Seem that all you need to do is lie in bed awake for what was left of the night 😁

    The only suggestion we didn't try was John's of letting it gravity bleed.

    BTW
    What's the round thing next to the slave, that the hydraulic lines go into, then out of?

    Thanks

    Tony

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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyC View Post

    BTW
    What's the round thing next to the slave, that the hydraulic lines go into, then out of?

    Thanks

    Tony
    It's a "Hydraulic Damper". Apparently for the diesel only. I've wondered if it has anything to do with the bleeding issue.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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    That illustration shows the bleed nipple at the very bottom of the system, which probably wouldn't help. Mine isn't like that.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  10. #10
    TonyC is online now Master Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    That illustration shows the bleed nipple at the very bottom of the system, which probably wouldn't help. Mine isn't like that.
    I put the slave up the other way, bleed at the top, maybe that's my problem, the air isn't getting trapped 🤔

    I'm sure my 300TDi/ R380 Defender doesn't have a hydraulic damper, I'll have to crawl under and have a look.

    One the subject of odd round thing Discos have, what is the thing that look a bit like a harmonic balancer on the front diff just near the drive flange? My Defender doesn't have one of those either.

    Tony

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