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Most of the time, if the car has had a hit, it's the front.Quote:
Originally Posted by edddo
If the difference has been corrected by adjusting the rear, this could change the rear thrust angle, which won't correct the issue.
Maybe measure it with a helper to be sure there is no difference.
It might need to go to a good aligner, assuming the brakes aren't sticking
Thanks JohnQuote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Why does this lead you to think it is the rear?
A 'steering damper' that, in reality, is a repurposed shock absorber (i.e. non OEM or genuine) could cause this because a lot of them have gas pressure to reduce foaming internally.Quote:
Originally Posted by edddo
You could pull it out temporarily and see ifthatmakes a difference.
DL
yep will do that thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by 350RRC
I tend to agree with John, something is moving from drive to overrun. It's more likely to be the rear because in normal driving most if not all drive goes to the rear axle, centre diff notwithstanding. long shot, but I guess you could try locking the CDL and see if that has any effect.Quote:
Originally Posted by edddo
Yes, I also agree with John, my last post put me on page 2 before I saw your new information post.
If you haven't already, check the drag link and track rod measurements. Had similar issue because track rod distances from centre of ball joint to end of tube was way out - not my doing. Proper alignment of track rod fixed problem. Per Haynes.
Drivers side ball centre 28.5 from end of track rod tube. Next along adjuster gap 9mm between tubes. Adjust passenger ball joint until its centre is 1230 from centre of drivers side ball joint.
Drag link is also 28.5 but centre to centre of ball joints is 924.
Just to confuse the issue.....
I recently put a completely different set of wheels and tyres on.
Outcome: Pull to right is completely gone.
Very slight but tolerable pull to the left.
Throws out all of my thinking on the cause....and probably everyone who has contributed to this thread.
Could it be the new tyres?
There was no pull to right with original tyres on car which were too big ( 235's).
I put on smaller muddies - pull to right as described
Change wheels/tyres completely - no pull to right.
?
I would like some more discussion of this persisting issue.
Recap: Car steered ok with 2 sets of tyres but had a bad pull right with the third.
1: 235/85 muddies (forgotten brand) on disco steelies - terrible effect on gearing but steered ok
2: 245/75s on Rangie Hiline rims - steered ok marginal pull to left
3: 265/70s on both the steelies and the Hiline mags - pulls badly to the right
As it does the same on both sets of rims, the only factor is the tyres?
Any further ideas on this. Car is unsafe with the new muddies on it - not good to head into oncoming traffic with any lapse of concentration.
It is most pronounced at town speeds eg 30 to 70.
Alignment done etc to no effect.
Quote:
Originally Posted by edddo
Quote:
Originally Posted by edddo
Hi edddo,
Really left field, are your swivel hub preloads OK?
Lack of preload can lead to wheel shimmy, maybe this is happening with different weight tyres?
Were is Yack? Yackandandah? If so I'm an hour away.
I have 235/70 road tyres on Disco steelies, 255/85 muddies on 130 wheels, 285/75 muddies on 0 or neg offset steelies and can arrange 265/75 muddies on unknown offset steelies.
If you want to try more wheels and get more confused let me know.
Tony