Thread: Cannot disengage CDL. What to do?

Apart from the intermediate shaft and the need to engage the CDL on loose surfaces the LT 230 is pretty robust. I wondered about fitting one to my OKA to get rid of the need for free wheeling hubs. People laughed at the idea, but I still wonder. I see some very heavily loaded 130s out there.

Originally Posted by frankdisco

So I just want to provide an update here. I got off the call with the owner of the Dealership and he indirectly told me that this is my fault for engaging the CDL on a solid surface. First off, I was not aware of this and because this is my first 4x4, a once-over courtesy during delivery would have helped. Anyhow, he said that he spoke to a mechanic who is supposed to be an expert on Land Rovers and advised to unlink the drive shaft from the transfer case so it can be driven as a 4x2 but only at short distances. He also said that the transfer case needs to be replaced. Was it that bad that it got to this point? I'm a little unsure now.

IF that short of a drive on hard op with the CDL locked has caused damage it was cooked from the outset. You can drop the front shaft and drive it in 2x4 with the Cdl locked quite easily and for quite a distance. you need 2x 9/16th ring open end spanners to get the nuts and bolts off. or a 3/8th drive 9/16th socket with a wobble drive extension and a suitable ratchet and the 9/16th Ring open.

IF you're trying to pull the shaft, and its stuck in CDL chock one wheel at the back, lift both wheels on one side of the vhehicle. Neutral for the tcase, park brake off and then rotate the wheel to get access to the nuts and bolts. The diff end is easier to get from thebottom side of the flanges and the tcase end the top. Turn the propshaft by hand and you'll soon work out which orientation works best. I generally remove the diff side first as it lets the shaft flop down to give even more room on the Tcase end.

Hope that helps, IF you get really really stuck you might give LTG4x4 a call IF they're not busy they might let you have the use of the hoist.

I would suggest that before you take it to a mechanics, get under, pull the oil fill plug (its nestled at about the 9 oclock postiion behind the handbrake backing plate) and stick a zip tie or something similar in there to assess the condition of the oil. If you get metally bits on the oil, Stop.. Take photos and dont drive it till you've spoken to the dealer about why theres already metal in the oil. Preferably its a conversation you might want to have in writing.

Good luck.