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Quote:
Originally Posted by rovercare
I bloody told you all I would do that, Ive been at work since 5am and it was flat out, please forgive me
:bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::wallbash: :wallbash::wallbash::wallbash::bat::bat::bat::bat: :no2::no2::no2:
common sense tells you to go get a wheel alignment after you change spring and shocks weither your lifting a car of lowering it
If you are talking about a Land Rover with a live axle in the front, why bother? You haven't changed the toe in / out and that is the only adjustable parameter of the alignment. If need be you can adjust the length of the drag link to get the steering wheel centred.Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtdawg
Maybe to find out the current castor angle to get a correction figure, then correct aforementioned castor to factory specs:DQuote:
Originally Posted by BigJon
So..........Dirtdawg did you buy the springs/shocks? If so could you give us a bit of an idea what you think of the ride now?
Bugger that, just drive it :D. I lifted my Rangie (not an extreme lift) and I haven't corrected the castor. They don't all need it. If castor correction is required, the vehicle will let you know :o.Quote:
Originally Posted by rovercare
Yep, dead right, see how it drives, but you might think its ok, then correct the 2 degrees you lost it'll be heaps better, nothing like doing a job right:)Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJon
nope havent bought it yet just getting some opinions b4 i start spending, march/april is gonna be when i go for the lift kit and the roof top tent
rovers being what they are, the exact same suspension in 2 vehicles the same can behave differently.