Body lift kits - The ins and outs?

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Originally Posted by r.over

A spring lift does not allow bigger tyres unless you drop your bump stops or stuff up your articulation. It also increases the angle of drive lines causing viabrations and vague driving.

A body lift leaves all the drive angles the same, leaves your articulation unchanged, and keeps the centre of gravity a lot lower.


You do not need to extend brakes lines, only move the mounting points. Should not need to change steering shaft with a 2 inch lift. TC shifter just needs an extension added, but the hole in the tunnel may need to be a bit bigger. The alteration that has not been mentioned relates to the radiator fan and/or radiator.

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I had to add about 15mm to the steering shaft on my rig ;)

radiator just needed 2 x 50mm blocks fitted to the top mounts - the bottom of the radiator fits into the chassis so that doesnt require any mod

top of the radiator shroud still cleared the fan, so no probs there either

TC shifter just needed a M10 long nut and 10mm bolt to extend it and the original knob just screws on and looks original

mine is an auto which is cable operated and the cable is long enough to cater for a 2inch lift with no mods

front and rear brake lines are fine on my 97 model. know some earlier models needed longer lines but mine is okay so far. I think on the earlier models you can just relocate the fitting where the flex pipe joins the hard pipe in the inner wheel arch.

hope that helps

this is a link to a write up about my disco. About the middle of the threads I have posted some info and pictures on my body lift.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-ri...co-tassie.html

it may answer some of your questions :D

Thanks guys. Good thread!

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Originally Posted by mickashay

you can by a 2 1/2 inch body lift from lra but dont know if they do a inch one there kit comes with everything needed(seat belt extensions,brake line extansions,bracket to move plastic around fan and links to move gear shifter)the bumper bar and rear bar will have a gap after you do it
as a mech you should do it in under a day,i have a 2inch b/L done and it has been great so far
cheers mick

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I noticed this thread & thought "Oh cool some more useful info to digest".
Will savour for the future projects etc...
So had a read & for the life of me i cant think why the seat belts need to have extensions? Whether it be a D1/D1a or a D2/D2a !?;)

Can someone enlighten me please.:eek:

RRC's, D1's and D2's(??) have bracket that attach the seat belt mounting to the chassis. The link bracket take up increased distance between the seat belt link and the chassis mountis

It's not always necessary to fit extended brake lines, drop the mounting points down for that extra length
It is not always necessary to extend your gear levers. They may fit where they are and if the transfer case lever is fowling on the transmission shaft, it is possible to pull the lever mechanism apart and adjust the fitment of the lever (see subtle D1 in members rides)

Sometomes it is necessary to fit a longer steering shaft - I had to. The shaft from an RR is longer than a disco one and suits.

It is necessary to fit seat belt extensions. It is necessary to move your radiator. The shrowd is fitted to the radiator and moves with it.

It is not necessary to modify the front and rear bumpers but it does look better if it is done.

I believe the extra cost of the LRA kit is due to it being an engineered modification which means you will have less problems later on. Talk to Andrew Richmond at LRA about this.

Never seen a lot of point in BL's myself - the diff is still where it was, along with all the other dangly bits - in a comp truck running 37's fair enough, otherwise it seems like a lot of rooting around for not much gain in real terms.
A lot of the TJ Jeep boys do it (not me) cos it's cheap and they do have LOTS of flex...but the diff is still where it was...if you're doing big rubber and ratios...well, go for it!
Mike

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Originally Posted by 2 rocks

Never seen a lot of point in BL's myself - the diff is still where it was, along with all the other dangly bits - in a comp truck running 37's fair enough, otherwise it seems like a lot of rooting around for not much gain in real terms.
A lot of the TJ Jeep boys do it (not me) cos it's cheap and they do have LOTS of flex...but the diff is still where it was...if you're doing big rubber and ratios...well, go for it!
Mike

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Well....that was..........helpful:confused::D

I aim to please.

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Originally Posted by 2 rocks

I aim to please.

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Hey, I'm just pleased to aim:D