Thread: Body lift kits - The ins and outs?

Originally Posted by rovercare

Hey, I'm just pleased to aim

Damn, I so have to get me a shirt without a target on it! Last one got holes in it...
Hmm, didn't read all posts closely should have just said "I'm with mcrover!"


Mike

Originally Posted by 2 rocks

"I'm with mcrover!"


Mike

Do you feel like you need a shower?

Originally Posted by 2 rocks

"I'm with mcrover!"


Mike

If you put that on a shirt it would deffinatly attract a few holes

Originally Posted by rovercare

Do you feel like you need a shower?

I do......

Originally Posted by r.over

A spring lift does not allow bigger tyres unless you drop your bump stops or stuff up your articulation. It also increases the angle of drive lines causing viabrations and vague driving.Nor does a body lift unless you cut your guards and add flares if your going over 33" which wont hit anything with a 2" spring lift and a Camel cut

A body lift leaves all the drive angles the same, leaves your articulation unchanged, and keeps the centre of gravity a lot lower.drive line angles are true with lifts over about 2"s but this can be rectified with DC joints and caster can be fixed with modified swivel housings which are all relatively easy to do but is expensive.The COG is part of your coment is incorrect as it will be the same for the same hight lift body or susp


You do not need to extend brakes lines, only move the mounting points. Fair enoughShould not need to change steering shaft with a 2 inch lift.You will get 1 1/2" but 2" normally needs an extension TC shifter just needs an extension added, but the hole in the tunnel may need to be a bit bigger.Ok The alteration that has not been mentioned relates to the radiator fan and/or radiator.Yeah the blocks that someone else mentioned between the top mounts and the radiator.

If you were doing more offroad racing then I would say probably go the BL, big panel cuts and big wheels but for general 4wding and not running over 33" you will get away with a 2" susp lift as all you will need.

Originally Posted by mcrover

If you were doing more offroad racing then I would say probably go the BL, big panel cuts and big wheels but for general 4wding and not running over 33" you will get away with a 2" susp lift as all you will need.

33's WILL fowl the inner gaurds with no BL

Originally Posted by rovercare

33's WILL fowl the inner gaurds with no BL

Really, I'll be sure to tell the 2 blokes in my club that run that exact set up that they are fowling the guards.

1 of them ran standard Disco rims for a while but has changed to flipped rims as it was polishing the inner panels on the real and he couldnt get full lock.

The other runs 15" sunrasia type rims with 33 10.5 15 muddies and doesnt have and scrubbing problems that I have heard of.

I do know that the first is a 97 same as mine with rear sway bar still connected so this could be a factor.

Originally Posted by mcrover

Really, I'll be sure to tell the 2 blokes in my club that run that exact set up that they are fowling the guards.

1 of them ran standard Disco rims for a while but has changed to flipped rims as it was polishing the inner panels on the real and he couldnt get full lock.

The other runs 15" sunrasia type rims with 33 10.5 15 muddies and doesnt have and scrubbing problems that I have heard of.

I do know that the first is a 97 same as mine with rear sway bar still connected so this could be a factor.

Putting in stiff springs to restrict travel can have a reasonable effect as long as you do not go into too difficult tracks. So if you want to run 33's with just a spring lift, just leave your sway bars connected up and don't plan anything serious off-road.

In regard your comment about centre of gravity changes. You should maybe revisit your views. A body lift leaves the chassis and the whole drive train at the original height. With a spring lift this weight is moved higher. Therefore the COG must be higher with a spring lift compared to a body lift.