Thread: Door trim removal - how to?

I used an old carving fork, which worked beautifully. The fasteners are spaced fairly evenly all around the trim, including the top of the door.

It is worth buying some new fasteners before starting, as some will break anyway, or have been broken by the last bloke who did it. On my car I took the time to Araldite the broken foam back into place around the holding bit, discovering at the same time that the door trim had been made on my 36th birthday

This job is worth doing well, as 90% of the squeaks in the car (which I had never been able to trace) had disappeared when I got it all back together

Cheers Charlie

From memory you remove the screws in the side and then pull the door trim off. Being careful not to break too many push in plugs or the black plastic bit inside of the door mirror.

The cracking noise is the plugs coming out of the door. That is a good noise. If it is quiet then you have broken the heads off the plugs.

Where do you get the replacement plugs from, will repco or suchlike have them or is it time to take out a loan for the genuine ones?

There is a special tool you can get from Repco or whatever to prise the little suckers off. You will still break them though

I have got about 50% of mine put back with Araldite

New fasteners are available from Land Rover parts suppliers; I think I only paid about $20, enough to do all 5 doors and didn't need all of them.

Supporting the area around the head of the fastener helps prevent the trim from being broken (it is only made of a rather fragile foam type material).

......................& when you fit the panel back, smear some light grease on all the pins.

Don't forget to remove the door handle bolts and the screw for the plastic behind the pull latch.

The speaker can stay in but be careful removing it's connector/s.