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Thread: Balancing front prop. shaft.

  1. #11
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    That's why they are balanced from factory, but unless the wieght drops of or something changes, a dent etc, then there is no need to rebalance

    I've got quite a few shafts made by my mate, all statically balanced, not dynamic and all work well
    I know of a "well respected" mechanical engineer who puts in the time to make the shaft straight (Not bent) ... heats up the shaft and straightens it out on the lathe .... No weights required

    Your right on the balance subject tho

    The only way a shaft can unbalance itself is under extreme loads where it makes the shaft twist heavily and kinks the pipe further // Examples would be "Burn out Kings" or the towing of heavy caravans

    I'm just fussy, and did go "just a little" over board with a "New Shaft"


    The only reason i'm suggesting that he gets it balanced is because he could have up to (worst case senario) "8 positions??" to try ... to get it right as he lost the original markings



  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    I know of a "well respected" mechanical engineer who puts in the time to make the shaft straight (Not bent) ... heats up the shaft and straightens it out on the lathe .... No weights required

    Your right on the balance subject tho

    The only way a shaft can unbalance itself is under extreme loads where it makes the shaft twist heavily and kinks the pipe further // Examples would be "Burn out Kings" or the towing of heavy caravans

    I'm just fussy, and did go "just a little" over board with a "New Shaft"


    The only reason i'm suggesting that he gets it balanced is because he could have up to (worst case senario) "8 positions??" to try ... to get it right as he lost the original markings


    Rotating through all 8 positions is better than spending the money getting a shaft balanced

    How does he heat it up and straighten it on a lathe?

    All the ones we've done have been largely spigoted, useing a yoke that fits in the gearbag to fit in the shaft as the locator with a sleeve if necessary, machined to neat fit, then I just phase it and weld it up, simple and effective and I've have a few well over the double metric ton with no vibes

  3. #13
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    How does he heat it up and straighten it on a lathe?
    Build new propshaft ....

    Put shaft in lathe ... turn ... look for bend ... warm it up ... Turn & roll it out

    Takes time ... and i'm speaking in general terms

    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    All the ones we've done have been largely spigoted, useing a yoke that fits in the gearbag to fit in the shaft as the locator with a sleeve if necessary, machined to neat fit, then I just phase it and weld it up, simple and effective and I've have a few well over the double metric ton with no vibes
    If that works for you .... wouldn't change the method for quids .. All thumbs up ... cause its "all in the eye"


    Even that new one I have, is slightly bent in the middle (from a weld line in the center) ... so it has a dag weld + a weight in the center of the propshaft .. Mongrel design .... (The shaft was rebuilt by others ... not the engineer I mentioned)

  4. #14
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    When I had my rear prop shaft repaired in Darwin by transmission specialist they stated that ALL prop shafts should be rebalanced when new UJs fitted

    Regards

    Brendan

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    Build new propshaft ....

    Put shaft in lathe ... turn ... look for bend ... warm it up ... Turn & roll it out

    Takes time ... and i'm speaking in general terms

    Wouldn;t that cause alot of hardening to the steel used?, he'd have to get it cherry red, unless he's set up a stress roller of some kind on the bed?

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by leeds View Post
    When I had my rear prop shaft repaired in Darwin by transmission specialist they stated that ALL prop shafts should be rebalanced when new UJs fitted

    Regards

    Brendan
    Should rotate your tyres every 5k and balance them every 10k to

  7. #17
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    Wouldn;t that cause alot of hardening to the steel used?, he'd have to get it cherry red, unless he's set up a stress roller of some kind on the bed?
    He has the tools ... and is old school taught
    That's why he's the "engineer" and I'm just the "layman" ....

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    He has the tools ... and is old school taught
    That's why he's the "engineer" and I'm just the "layman" ....
    I just wanna know how he does it, I'm curious thats all, spill the beans?

  9. #19
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    I just wanna know how he does it, I'm curious thats all, spill the beans?
    I've gone as far as I can in the method


    You would have to ask him yourself .... as for asking about subjects of hardening & softening of the metals // etc ....... I can't answer that, as I would be talking out of my ... well you get the last bit


    There are some other engineers here who could maybe expand on this method tho

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    That's why they are balanced from factory, but unless the wieght drops of or something changes, a dent etc, then there is no need to rebalance

    I've got quite a few shafts made by my mate, all statically balanced, not dynamic and all work well

    Mine has a fairly sizable dent in it!

    Bugger it, Mr. Rudd's xmas bonus has found a new home by the looks of it.

    I'll get it balanced as soon as I can work out the correct spline setup.

    Thanks all.

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