TopicToaster
Nope it is as said by others above. ***** of a spot to get to I might add.Originally Posted by Traco
Behind the glovebox is an array of other smaller electronic modules such as the power windows module.
Fossicker
Justin, spot on, found it easily. I had seen it before but for some reason didn't think it was it when all I could read were the words "...fuel injection..." - Never mind..
To top it all off and reveal how inept I am, I couldn't get the multiplug off the ECU so I gave up.
TopicToaster
To get the plug off there is a clip on the front edge. Push it while applying slight downward pressure and the plug will virtually fall out. The rear edge of the plug is just slotted into the socket. Getting it back in can be a nasty job though due to the mass of wires in the general area.
Why are you taking it out Ben?....or are you just having a poke about?
Fossicker
I was trying to follow a ECU input checklist I found on another website. It tells which pins to check with your multimeter to test MAF. TPS. and the other sensors.
Was hoping to see if anything was looking suspect to be still causing me problems with my idling.
However, I don't see how I can connect a meter to the pins without back probing the wires on the muliplug.
Fossicker
Pretty sure the problem with idling is now fixed after 6 months!
The final piece in the puzzle was MAF Tuning.
So how did the MAF get checked & tuned??
Fossicker
I got a MAF off Ebay (despite reading bad stories about them - 40GBP worth a punt), but I took it Bosch (the only place in Qatar that can do it apparently). They seemed confused but reported that it was done - though there was still a little "white smoke".So how did the MAF get checked & tuned??
Drove it for a week or so, but problem seemed to get worse. So I decided to take a meter reading of the MAF myself (so I could always reset it to where Bosch had it) with the idea to try some fine tuning and test driving. Gave a half turn in favour of richening the mix and then took it for 40km test drive - performed perfectly. Tried all the usual manoeveurs that caused it problems before and it was fine. Needs more testing but I feel confident, I think I'll take it to the main dealer to get them to arrange tuning at it's next service
Only problem is the car has now broken down on me again. I've had an intermittent problem (3 breakdowns now) - will post a new thread.
Hi Ben.
If you want to do some checks on the TPS then you can use the following as a guide.
There are three leads coming from the TPS, Brown [yellow] (+5 volt supply), Blue [green] (Ground) and Green [red] (TPS Signal). There is a very near connector where the colours change to Yellow (+5 volt supply), Red/Black (Ground) and Red (TPS Signal).
Colours in square brackets [ ] are for early pre 1994 TPS sensors
Very simple to check for the correct connection, ground voltmeter on back of RHS cylinder head, switch on ignition anod move the throttle pedal. The Supply will remain constant at 5 volts, the Ground will remain constant at zero and the TPS Signal will alter from 0.32-0.34 volts to approaching 5.0 volts.
When you check this connection the 0.32-0.34 at idle is very important, if not correct then adjust by loosening and rotating the TPS sensor.
Also the rise of voltage with throttle movement should be smooth with no blips or drops, these indicate a worn sensor which requires replacement. Badly worn would cause the ECU to think that you were pumping the throttle continuously.
I've used this guide when I was installing my WB02 sensor without messing with the ECU.
Regards.
S.
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