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Thread: should i re-do timing belt 300tdi

  1. #1
    slappy Guest

    should i re-do timing belt 300tdi

    hey guys and girls,

    i've very recently added a beautiful D1 tdi to my garage that was one of the last to come out in 01/99. she's done 158k so i bought her on the condition that the timing belt would be done by the dealer and this is where the problem starts. the landy specialist that i got to inspect the car said to be very wary about the belt and that they are often stuffed up by those that dont know what they're doing. he mentioned that the other bits need changing over as well but the mechanic that did it for the dealer said he had to send the kit he had back as it was the wrong one and that the land rover parts people said that only the belt needs replacing on late tdi's. this has left me scratching my head as to what to do as I have the invoice for the replacement so am loathe to spend 700 odd bucks getting it re done by my mechanic. especially as i payed premium dollars for the truck on the condition that it would be done properly and have the other niggles fixed. any advice would be much appreciated as it's all a bit confusing.

    cheers,

    Mike.

  2. #2
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    Well, for peace of mind I would be inclined to do another replacement job knowing only the contadictory facts that you relate. All 300tdis need replacement 60k-70k, the early ones were the ones that gave most trouble - 98 models should be OK (but still adhere to replkacement schedule)

    Just a belt change shouldn't cost that much.... talk to a competent LR specialist workshop and see what they recommend and offer.

    Yes, there are other parts that should be replaced on a belt change (eg. idlers & tensioner bearings, water pump etc)

    To help us to help you - where are you???
    at how many ks was the belt supposed to have been last replaced???
    do you a workshop and tools???
    and do you feel sufficiently mechanical competent to dismantle it yourself???

  3. #3
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    If the updated pulleys have already been fitted (which they should have, many years ago - it was a recall item I think) you probably just need a new belt.

    Read this link: DIFFLOCK - 300tdi Timing Belt Change and look for point 12.


    12. Inspect Timing Cover and Belt

    With the timing cover removed, inspect the inner surfaces of the front and rear cover for any deposits of black belt dust and debris or oil contamination.

    If there is oil contamination, you will need to replace the camshaft and crankshaft oil seals in the rear timing cover. See our special Difflock Guide to replacing these in the next issue.

    If there is a significant build up of black belt dust and debris, this is an indication that your belt is badly worn and that possibly the 300TDI engine requires a modification kit to be fitted. (Note: You do NOT need to fit a modification kit if your belt shows no signs of excessive wear, regardless of VIN Number).

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by spudboy View Post
    ........ and look for point 12.


    12. Inspect Timing Cover and Belt..
    ..................not quite so simple if he doesn't have (or have access to) the tools to lock the crankshaft & undo & remove the harmonic balancer (pulley)

  5. #5
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    Mike,

    300tdi that late in the run should be sorted.

    speak to any major LR dealer service department and ask what is involved with the timing belt service. If idlers need to be replaced and yours only has the belt changed then you have something to complain about.

    One of the mechanics on the list that is not on leave will come along soon and give you the good oil.

  6. #6
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    Mike,

    There are heaps of opinions on this, but I can tell you that I NEVER just replace the belt. ALWAYS the tensioner and idler, and obviously any seals that look like they are weeping. Think of it this way, the idler and tensioner have at least 80K odd already, they WILL not last all up 160K at the next belt change. Obviously there are those that don't replace them, hoping that any warranty has run out before it seizes and breaks the belt they fitted

    Do it once properly.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Mike,

    There are heaps of opinions on this, but I can tell you that I NEVER just replace the belt. ALWAYS the tensioner and idler, and obviously any seals that look like they are weeping. Think of it this way, the idler and tensioner have at least 80K odd already, they WILL not last all up 160K at the next belt change. Obviously there are those that don't replace them, hoping that any warranty has run out before it seizes and breaks the belt they fitted

    Do it once properly.

    JC
    X2

    These things are so bad for the belt tracking over and wearing away the edge and/or the flange on the drive pulley. Any wear in the idler pulley assembly is not worth the risk - even though it has the late type idler assy, they are a consumable item on 300Tdi.

  8. #8
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    x3...

    I also like to recommend replacing the harmonic balancer as well although generally most are ok at the initial 80k mark and need doing at the second interval.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
    Lucas Guest
    Hi I just completed change over of the timing belt in my 300tdi with 140k on the clock.
    My local LR mechanic quoted 700 to do the job but with having done it on my Defender I thought why pay some one else.
    The kit I bought from British 4wd for $235, it took me about 9 hours, including time to make a pulley tool to remove the crank shaft bolt and to replace the 2 woodruff keys the 2 replacements had to be reworked to remove @ 2mm of the height.
    From my previous expience with the Defender replacing the woodruff keys at a couple of dollars each is a good investment.
    The kit from British 4wd came with belt, oil seal, tensioner, idler, gasket, timing pins for both the fly wheel and injection pump and a rave CD.
    In addition to the kit I would suggest buying a seal for the timing cover and the 2 woodruff keys.
    If you have an auto the fly wheel pin that was supplied was to long and fouled on the sump (more rework), I would suggest getting the supplier to confirm its length.

    Hope this helps.
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