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11th February 2009, 04:07 PM
#11
Yeah he did mention that when i got my ECU remaped, probably should have got it fixed then...
Anyway i tried graphite powder and that didn't seem to help but i did find a cheap "temporary" solution, basically i put a 10mm wide strip of duct tape on the base of the key so that now the key when pushed all the way in will start it.
So from this:

To this:

Tried it out and works just like a new one
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11th February 2009, 05:32 PM
#12
My lock jammed in November so I used graphite fixed it. Worked for a month and then seized completely Disco had a ride home on a tray.
Rang Melbourne landrover dealer quoted $500 to remove refurbish and replace, do not supply new. Rang AMV they quoted $130 to remove and take to locksmith for rebuild.
I read workshop manual, removed lock and $55 later Locksmith had rebuilt. Only problem is the removal of the 2 shear nuts (round heads) but soft metal and loosened quite easy when tapped with an old chisel. 2 new allen key screws $4. back on the road better than new.
Common problem according to landrover take some weight of your key ring specially when 4X4 driving
John
98 Disco Tdi Auto
Ridepro 2" lift
Rear Trutrac
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11th February 2009, 08:30 PM
#13
MIne had the same problem 2 years ago,went to a local lock smith who has repaired a few and he showed me wear the square shoulder on the key that stops it from pushing into the lock wears the alloy on the outer of the lock which allows the key to go in to far which is why you have to play with it to get it to turn. What he did was cleaned lock and fitted a steel roll pin through the barrel of the lock so the tip of the key hits the pin when its at the correct depth (steel touching steel should not wear). So does not need the shoulder on key, this is why the tape stopping the key going in to the lock works. From memeory cost $120-$150 at time to remove repair check and refit. Have not had a problem since.
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