Thread: D1 V8 - Clunk on take-off & slow turning

Currently in the news...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery/...k-takeoff.html

I will have a look at the possibilities raised in the previous thread. Its the irregularity and that it happens when the stearing is turned, that gets me! Unfortunately, it will be two weeks before I can get onto it. I will post once I have had a go. Thanks

I'd be perhaps looking to your CV joints or maybe your swivel pin bearings (though these tend to "click on cornering")

Can you isolate it to front or rear?
If rear prob A frame ball joint, or badly worn trailing arm bushes.
If front could be worn radius arm bushes or panhard rod bushes.

Or, if you still have sway bars fitted, could be the bushes or link rubbers or link ball joints (which are a greased metal to metal ball joint) which maybe why it happens on turning as the sway bars are loaded up.

Good luck!

Originally Posted by Discorock

Can you isolate it to front or rear?
If rear prob A frame ball joint, or badly worn trailing arm bushes.
If front could be worn radius arm bushes or panhard rod bushes.

Or, if you still have sway bars fitted, could be the bushes or link rubbers or link ball joints (which are a greased metal to metal ball joint) which maybe why it happens on turning as the sway bars are loaded up.

Good luck!

I find the sway bay rubbers are usually "crack" as wheels articulate up and down. Even cornering or getting in and out of the vehicle can move the suspension enough.

Originally Posted by Adrian

My Manual V8 (recently converted to LPG) has developed a clunk (loud and jarring) which happens irregularly when taking off whilst turning, from parked. It also happens when reversing. It has a 2inch lift and wide tyres, however the engine stops are not the issue. The dif lock also seems fine (Nice clean engage with the light coming on. The light goes off a few seconds after disengaging). There is no vibration when driving and it tracks and steers well. Having owned a series III previously, I am new to discoveries.... Any advice will be greatly appreciated!

MINE DID THE SAME IT TURNED OUT TO BE THE KING PIN BEARINGS AND MINE WAS CURED BY REMOVING ONE SHIM . IT MUST BE DETERMINED WERE THE NOISE IS COMING FROM . THE DISCO ALSO HAVE CENTRE DIFF PROBLEMS IF THE OILS ARE NOT CHANGED. ALSO IF ITS DONE A FEW MILES THE CVS MAT NEED CHANGING. THERES ONE MORE SIMPLE ONE IF YOU HAVE HAD YOUR FRONT WHEELBEARINGS DONE CHECK THEY ARE CORRECT AND MAKE SURE THE GASKET HAS BEEN REPLACED BEHIND THE HUB DRIVE FLANGE , SOME USE SILICON BUT THATS WRONG. IT CAUSES A CLUNK BECAUSE THE CV IS NOW NOT SHIMMED CORECTLY.

Originally Posted by LEAKOVERY

MINE DID THE SAME IT TURNED OUT TO BE THE KING PIN BEARINGS AND MINE WAS CURED BY REMOVING ONE SHIM . IT MUST BE DETERMINED WERE THE NOISE IS COMING FROM . THE DISCO ALSO HAVE CENTRE DIFF PROBLEMS IF THE OILS ARE NOT CHANGED. ALSO IF ITS DONE A FEW MILES THE CVS MAT NEED CHANGING. THERES ONE MORE SIMPLE ONE IF YOU HAVE HAD YOUR FRONT WHEELBEARINGS DONE CHECK THEY ARE CORRECT AND MAKE SURE THE GASKET HAS BEEN REPLACED BEHIND THE HUB DRIVE FLANGE , SOME USE SILICON BUT THATS WRONG. IT CAUSES A CLUNK BECAUSE THE CV IS NOW NOT SHIMMED CORECTLY.

we hear yeah no need to shout

think you need to hit you caps button matey

Originally Posted by dullbird

we hear yeah no need to shout

think you need to hit you caps button matey

no shouting or raising my voice at my end , i allways type in caps its easy to read and quicker than adding capitals were needed, dont take offence, all those case sencsitive people out there i am sorry for hurting your ears lol