DISCO will not Turn Over - Help?

the repairer is quoting $350 to fix..

your thoughts on this one?

i will ring the lonsdale man this morning and compare prices..

thoughts?

Byte

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pierre

Give Phil a ring at TRS in Lonsdale 8384 6933. Ask him for a 96 V8 disco ignition module cost. On your car it is located on the radiator support panel on the passenger side next to the coil. It is an aluminium heat sink with some components on it - the components are the ignition module. Part number probably STC 1856.

Take a piccie of the installation, then substitute the "new" for old.

HTH

Pete

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Thanks Pirre.

Spoke to Phil this morning and he is a really cool guy - honest and knows his stuff!

Anyway, I got the Landy back from the doctors - They did not replace or repair anything but still charged me $125. :mad::(

What they did do however was play around (wiggle wires, knocking it) with the ignition module and then it started and so ran a few signal tests for correct waveform. It is giving the expected waveform - clear, discrete, defined with no drop off. So, this module still works and they suspect it is just one of those things with electronics but did say it might be on it's way out.... I asked them to do no further work and so I drove it home...

Now, Phil stated that these modules rarely fail but said he could get a good used one for me for $70...He also stated that my lack of spark from coil problem may also be attributed to a well known issue/fault that existed with 2 wires behind the radio and normally these troublesome wires were blanked off (as recommended by Land Rover themselves).

I will remove my aftermarket shtter radio and remove what's left of my broken plastic radio console and have a look inside for the state of these particular wires...

In the meantime, it seems this whole saga borne 3 issues to note for future reference :

1 - dirty connections on fuel pump and/or fuel pump harness
2 - 2 possible faulty wires behind radio
3 - temperamental ignition module (near side of radiator)

Byte

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Byte

Thanks Pirre.

Spoke to Phil this morning and he is a really cool guy - honest and knows his stuff!

Anyway, I got the Landy back from the doctors - They did not replace or repair anything but still charged me $125. :mad::(

What they did do however was play around (wiggle wires, knocking it) with the ignition module and then it started and so ran a few signal tests for correct waveform. It is giving the expected waveform - clear, discrete, defined with no drop off. So, this module still works and they suspect it is just one of those things with electronics but did say it might be on it's way out.... I asked them to do no further work and so I drove it home...

Now, Phil stated that these modules rarely fail but said he could get a good used one for me for $70...He also stated that my lack of spark from coil problem may also be attributed to a well known issue/fault that existed with 2 wires behind the radio and normally these troublesome wires were blanked off (as recommended by Land Rover themselves).

I will remove my aftermarket shtter radio and remove what's left of my broken plastic radio console and have a look inside for the state of these particular wires...

In the meantime, it seems this whole saga borne 3 issues to note for future reference :

1 - dirty connections on fuel pump and/or fuel pump harness
2 - 2 possible faulty wires behind radio
3 - temperamental ignition module (near side of radiator)

Byte

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Byte,

Those wires phil is referring to are the spider alarm immobiliser wires/ blanking plug that we ahve already spoken about, and Scouse confirmed your model doesn't have.

JC

If the symptoms disappeared with a wire wiggle, then the chance is that the cable could have broken internally. They are only p1ssant guage and this is NOT uncommon - happened a couple of times to moi on Disco and RRC!

So, young Byte, have you got a new multimeter yet??? Because you now need it...

I checked the continuity of the cabling associated with the module piece by piece, wiggling each wire until I found the suspect one. Then replaced it neatly.

Tested continuity again... all fixed.

Voila!

Perhaps this will help. If it does, it'll surely be cheaper.

Pete

thanks jc and Pierre.

Pierre - did you actually replace the faulty wire inside your faulty module instead of replacing the module?

How easy is it to disect this module and perform this operation?

Yes - I did buy that new multimeter - time to use it eh :)

""Sighhhhhhhhhhhh"" - I'm exhausted after all this.

Appreciate every body's help on this one...

Byte

No, just the wiring/leads to and from the module and plugs associated with the module.

Pete