thanks John for the clarification I did wonder...Quote:
Originally Posted by Bush65
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thanks John for the clarification I did wonder...Quote:
Originally Posted by Bush65
...and the saga continues.....
Actions taken:
1. Jacked FR wheel - Diff Unlock - confirmed rotation of wheel
2. -"- - Diff Locked position - roation of wheel still continues
3. Both tried in Park, Drive and Netural - no change.
4. WD40 bath - loosened linkage movmentment - feels and looks as thought it is going full movement as it should - unable to obtain a lock.
5. Checked fuses F13 & 14 - replaced - no change.
6. Went for drive in sand and attempted to engage lock while both stationary and moving ( 5km ) - no change - no locking.
7. Still no indicator light when attempting lock and now also when turning on ignition pre starting motor.
8. Linkage area is stopless - no build up of anything except wd40.
9. Tried to manual entice linkage to go beyond its full extenion when engaging lock - carefully. No change, no lock.
Tmw I will commence sugery from the topside down, via gear lever well.
Have I missed anything?
R
Quote:
Originally Posted by dullbird
you diff lock light does not illuminate on start up of turning the ignition key....Quote:
Originally Posted by sailors_mission
Are you sure your looking at the right light? the only lights to illuminate that I'm aware of are the oil light, the anti lock light and the brake light if you have the hand brake on.
the diff lock light is on the bottom right hand corner of your instrument cluster
You are correct, my mistake, I get the oil, anti lock and brake only.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dullbird
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...ator-parts.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Bush65
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1255219283
These 2 diagrams show the relevant parts in the t/case.
After the check done so far, lets not forget that someone may have had the transfer case out or the linkage apart and something is not assembled or adjusted correctly.
Check easy things 1st.
As per earlier posts have the right front tyre just off ground.
Move hi/lo/diff lock lever across to left as far as it will go.
Use a long screwdriver, bar or piece of wood as a lever and push the lower end of the vertical lever (at the side of the gearbox - see pic in earlier post) away from the gearbox (i.e. toward the right side of vehicle).
While holding it hard over, rotate the front wheel (may need an assistant).
If the centre diff clicks in, then you may have worn bushes (there are 2 plastic bushes in the vertical lever for the pivot pin) at the pivot for the vertical lever or the pivot needs to be adjusted.
In this pic you can see the pivot toward the top centre. It is partly hidden by the electrical conduit (wire goes to difflock switch) fixed to the vertical lever with a cable tie. The lever pivots on the end of a post that screws into the side of the gearbox. It is adjusted by screwing the post in or out of the thread in the gearbox. In this case (lever not moving enough to lock diff) it will have to be screwed out a little. You first have to remove the spring clip and pivot pin, to enable the post to be rotated. Also loosen lock nut at gearbox end of post.
It may be easier to remove the centre console from around the gear lever and work from above.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...tor-locked.jpg
The next easy check is to ensure that the lever (item 34 in 1st diagram, 22 in 2nd diagram) on top of the transfer case has been installed properly (it can go onto it's shaft in different positions). The end that the short 'U' shape link goes in, should be pointing to the front of the vehicle. See pic and diagrams above. If it is assembled wrongly, it can be removed and installed properly without much trouble.
If the diff didn't lock when you levered it across, disconnect one end the 'U' link and push the link end of the lever (item 34 in 1st diagram, 22 in 2nd diagram) hard across to the right side of the car, while rotating the tyre.
If the diff locks when this is doen, then bushes are worn or pivot post needs to be adjusted as per above.
Now if the diff doesn't lock, it can be the switch for the diff lock lamp. The switch is item 23 in the 2nd diagram.
The switch screws into the top of the front drive housing. Remove the wires from spade terminals on the switch. Loosen the locknut and unscrew the switch a few turns.
Now test to see if the diff locks - the light won't come on because the switch is not operational, but you should find the tyre can't rotate when the diff locks.
If the diff locks, the switch was screwed in too far or the plunger in the switch is jambed. If the plunger is jambed, remove the switch and try to un-jamb it (wd40 etc). If not jambed screw the switch in until it just operates when the diff is locked. Don't screw it in too far or the diff won't lock.
If none of the above work, then it is more serious. You will have to remove the cover plate (item 16 in 1st diagram) from the side of the front drive housing to see what is happening inside. Or remove the front drive housing from the transfer case.
This will let you see the spring (item 14) that moves the difflock selector fork (item 15) and diff lock dog clutch (item 5). Item 20 is the diff lock selector shaft, which the selector fork and spring slide on.
When the top lever is moved by the linkages it turns shaft (item 30), which engages with the short slot/notch on top of the selector shaft (item 20). This pushes the selector shaft forward (lock position) or back (unlock). The collars at each end of the spring fit over the long slots/notches at top and bottom of the selector shaft. The shoulders at the ends of the long slots push against the spring, which in turn push against the selector fork. The selector fork pushes the dog clutch which will engage when its teeth are lined up (the tyre has to be rotated to get these teeth to line up).
The rear end of the selector fork pushes up the plunger in the diff lock switch when it moves to the lock position. As I have said, if the switch is down too far or sticking, the spring doesn't have enough force to push the fork past the switch.
I hope this helps.
John, tks.
I've been out there this morning, rechecking etc - no change. Now armed with the information you provided, I will regroup and attack again... will let you know. Very much appreciated your responses.
Rich
Success - I have 4H & 4L - fantastic!!! thanks all for the info. Didn't have to do any surgery, thank dog, just took her bush and " encouraged " her to engaged and get dirty. She did ! Great.
R
good news mate...
i told you that they can be hard to get over at first without much use...glad its all sorted
enjoy!!
I have what appears to be the same problem but with the information given in this thread, I'm pretty sure that I'll have it sorted out quickly.
Thanks to all, in particular to Bush65 for his clear and concise description of the operation and ways to check the functioning of the lock.