Making sparks fly! Upgrading the ignition system on D1 V8i

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Originally Posted by Adrian

I am away for a few days, but will get into it soon after.

Should I go for a Bosch 717 coil and matching amp (Bosch
Bosch BIM024 module, as per Bee utey)? I will do some digging on my return- availability and price. The plugs and leads seem to be less of an issue?

Maybe I should try to catch up with Bee utey as I will be in Adelaide this weekend!

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Seriously Adrian do yourself a favor and catch up with him it will be worth it

blythe

Unfortunately missed catching up with Bee utey when in Adelaide, but I will call and discuss his convertion in more detail and attempt it myself!! :eek:.

I'm very much a newby at this and have limited time, but am keen to know the vehicle inside out (a tad more complicated than my holden 6 / LPG converted '73 Series III)!

Shall post when its all done :)

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

I would sart at the other end and replace the plugs, leads, dizzy cap, rotor as a matter of course before looking at the coil/amp.

The Range Rover amp and coil , if in good condition are perfectly adequate for the purpose.

Regards Philip A

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I totally agree that the original amp/ coil is quite adequate when working, just they don't seem to last all that well when converted to LPG. The problem with running LPG is that the spark voltage changes with the different fuel mixture, and this causes more of what's called back-EMF to be generated. This heats up the coil and amp and causes early failure. As a guide a plug gap reduction of 30% partly addresses the back-EMF problem, but not entirely. Inductive core leads help too.

I used to find that converting points ignition cars to LPG would cause early death of the points, so much so that I regularly fitted "Ultra" transistor assist ignition kits. When they became obsolete, I started to develop these Bosch conversions and have never looked back.

The Bosch/Scorcher ignitions are designed to run up to 1.5mm /.060" plug gap, and so running them at 0.7 to 0.8mm in the Rover means they are quite well inside their tolerance range. That is the reason why I am so hot on the Bosch conversion, it is simply more robust as well as easier/cheaper to get spare parts for.