Disco 2 front propshaft grease points

Well now theres a bit of a reverlation. Thanks Bundalene & everyone and my problem is solved--there is no grease point.
I have found from my 2004 model that L/R did a few things differently on the last production D2s and I guess this is another one of them
Cheers
Paul
2004 disco2 td5 auto

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Originally Posted by BMKal

I have the same as what you're saying Scarry. Recently had the double cardan replaced with greasable joints by Hardie Spicer in Kal, and still have the grub screw where a nipple can be inserted in the slide section.

Mine's an '02 TD5 manual.

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Not the same as mine,mine has definitely no grub screw ,is as Bundalene's post.

Never heard of one failing,so maybe LR have done something for the better for a change.:o

Suppose if the clamps are real tight so it is sealed very well it should last a long time,as no water,dirt,etc can get in.

Interesting point to finish off with. I just saw a USA L/R forum site where a guy asked the same question about a grease point for the front sliding joint on a 2004 disco2 & posted a photo. From that it was clear he had the "standard" sliding joint with no boot and a hole to insert a grease nipple. It seems the later sealed linear job didn't make it to the U.S. L/R does move in mysterious ways.
Cheers
Paul
2004 disco2 td5 auto

Thanks for a most helpful thread.
As I "unlock the mysteries" of D2 maintenance, can the forum please advise, a: - best place to source the removable grease nipple, and b: - the location of any other grease nipples apart from propeller shaft. My reading has not revealed any others and I don't want to miss any.
Thanks again.

I am now at 199,000k's and have not touched my front shaft. No lift kit.
I am told I have done well but now it is getting me worried ,should I head off on a long trip only to gey a few k's down the road and have a shaft sitting in my lap. I will replace it shortly but with what. Phil from triumph Rover spares says to go with the new shaft as described below fitted to the last of the line. Others say to get the rebuilt greaseable type. All cost around the same. I am intrested to know what hardie spicer charge to rebuild the original. This seems the most sensible way to go.

Mike

Disco Mike--2 different issues here. The sliding joint/spline is not usually the cause of D2 shaft failure if kept lubricated. Its greasable in the D2 & permanently sealed in D2a's, mine at least. I have not heard of any failures (yet) of the sealed version. Most failures come fron the non- greasable double cardan joint (2 UJs in it) and people replace these UJs with greasable versions--cost seems to vary between around $200 and $300. The later sealed joint shaft does NOT fix the dry UJ problems.
Cheers Discolaw

On the subject, which joint in particular should I be paying attention to when attempting to cure the high pitched "cricket" sound from the front end?

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Originally Posted by Discobaker

On the subject, which joint in particular should I be paying attention to when attempting to cure the high pitched "cricket" sound from the front end?

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First off,the double cardan joint on the front drive shaft, ASAP. This sound can be one of the signs that the non greasable ujs are dry and on the way out. If it lets go it can do extensive damage especially if you are at speed.
Discolaw

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Originally Posted by discolaw

First off,the double cardan joint on the front drive shaft, ASAP. This sound can be one of the signs that the non greasable ujs are dry and on the way out. If it lets go it can do extensive damage especially if you are at speed.
Discolaw

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I believe it may have already been changed for a greasable unit, I think there's a grease nipple on the front shaft, just behind where it joins the front Diff. Getting under her again with a grease gun tomorrow night

Would this be classified as a greasable joint?https://www.aulro.com/afvb/