Thread: D2a handbrake cable adjustment

Originally Posted by Fluids

Thanks Roger!

So, turn the small nut on the cable outer (can't be seen in the photo as it's just inside the end of the foil outer insulation, just out of view), or the large nut that can be seen in the photo under the transmission tunnel ??


Kev..

Kev, good question, I'm 2000k's from my car at ATM, I will have a look on the weekend, you may need to loosen the hidden nut & adjust the big one.
Roger

Originally Posted by Redback

Just had a look for the adjuster for the handbrake under the lever and nothing no adjuster just the rubber grommet as in your pic Kev

Baz.

... and the plot thickens!. I think the RAVE version looks a lot easier & quicker to adjust. Wonder why they changed it ?

Kev..

Originally Posted by Disco W.A

Kev, good question, I'm 2000k's from my car at ATM, I will have a look on the weekend, you may need to loosen the hidden nut & adjust the big one.
Roger

Thanks Roger. That would be good. I think I see now, the large nut's a locknut. Loosen & screw the smaller nut on the cable outer out to take up some slack.

I'll have another go this weekend.

Kev..

Kev,
I had a look under mine & as best as I can make out the lower nut is fixed ( it's hard to see so I may be wrong) so try holding the lower nut with a spanner to stop the cable outer from rotating & adjust the upper one. just make sure you chock the wheels first & release the hand brake lever

Roger

Thanks Roger. Will look at it this weekend and report back.

Kev..

Thanks Roger. That was it. Here's a brief blow-by-blow for future reference ...

Chock wheels, handbrake off, auto in P ... and if you have SLS, engage off-road mode ... keeps the blasted muffler off your chest! I also put an axle stand under the tow hitch ... just in case. Don't wind it up more than just touching under the tow hitch, or the SLS will level out by releasing air from the bags and the axle stand will then be taking the full weight of the rear of the vehicle.

Adjust your handbrake shoes. Turn the adjuster nut at the bottom/centre on the handbrake assy/drum backing plate clockwise, until it comes to a stop, then, back it off/out 1.5 turns. I think that's a 17mm socket from memory. It's recessed in slightly so you need a longer socket ... I used a sliding 1/2' drive T bar which projected a std socket in just far enough.

(See 2x pictures at beginning of this thread for identification purposes.)

Hold the handbrake cable outer with a spanner (12/13mm). A short handled spanner is prefered. I used a pair of short/small shifting spanners. You'll probably need to pull back the foil insulation wrap to expose the nut on the cable outer.

Using a 20/21mm spanner, turn the large nut (which is against the underside of the transmission tunnel) in a clockwise direction to take up the slack in the handbrake cable. To get from 4-5 clicks on the handbrake back to 3 clicks, it took me about 4 full turns on the large nut ... you have to keep crawling out and checking the handbrake travel. Don't forget to release the handbrake each time BEFORE you crawl back under the Disco ...

I found the easiest access was to lie with your legs out the passenger side, with the exhaust join at the front of the front muffler above your face. That way it's a bit easier to get both arms up into the rather limited space you have to work in.

... and a pair of saftey glasses are a must as all the road debris keeps falling down into your eyes!

Please excuse my spanner sizes ... I measured the shifter openings after the fact but that should get you there.

Now you should have a handbrake that does nothing for the first 2x clicks, then grabs like a mother on the 3rd click ... and that's another job crossed off the list.

Kev..