Printable View
I have had similar issues with coolant level.
First thing I did was fit an enginesaver for peace of mind.
Much later I spotted a weep from the left side top of the radiator near the hose. This was 6 months ago - must get it fixed soon.
FYI, even though the level in the expansion tank is quite low, it has never run dry and I don't bother topping it up any more.
I too was very worried until the blokes on here helped me out.
Good luck.
Always a hard thing to diagnose. Have had two head gaskets go (not on LR's) both leaked just enough to be burnt off through the exhaust so no apparent water in the oil, just loss of coolant until they finally let go altogether.
Thank you all for your replies.
I have checked the return and it looks ok at idle but once I let it sit at 2000rpm for a minute or two the fluid changes, it's not what I would call aerated more sort of tinged with white. It could be aerated and it doesn't look like I thought it would but the white makes me think of emulsified oil. Checking the dipstick the oil is still black so I am guessing that a small amount of oil is making its way into the coolant as opposed to the other way round.
Whereas until very recently the level always sat low it is now slowly dropping with every drive, so instead of checking the fluids every couple of weeks I now check it every day.
Presuming the head gasket has gone, which sound pretty likely from the info people replied with, is it ok to drive around as long as I keep it topped up?
Dont commence any repairs without knowing. Best to get a proper check done for your own peace of mind.Quote:
Originally Posted by crl
If I had alternative transport, I would park it till I knew what was wrong.
Its your choice, whatever the problem is, continued driving risks a new motor instead of the initial repair.
Cheers.
Well after dropping the car into my local Land Rover dealer the cure was to replace the radiator and the water pump (again). While they were at it they noticed the fuel pressure regulator was leaking (again) so that will get replaced too.
Whilst it is there I am getting them to replace the ABS shuttle valve (or words to that effect) which should keep the 3 amigos at bay for now.
I realise that owning a TD5 D2 that there are common faults with the model that will have to be repaired along the way (oil in injector harness, fuel pressure regulator etc), I would have thought that once these were done they were done for some time. I stupidly thought that since these are common faults that the replacement parts might have been improved to avoid a recurrance of these common problems. I am now starting to run through the list for a second time which I am finding extremely annoying, especially since the repairs have failed well before the original parts did.
When will it all end?
Sorry to hear this for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by crl
But stop right now and think about this.
WHY?
Why replace the waterpump again? why did it fail again this time?
Dont think for one second that a replacement Shuttle valve (or words to that effect) will fix anything.
"Words to that effect" ....... what does that even mean?
Are you spending money on a vague stab in the dark repair?
Is your mechanic honestly asking you to pay for something that he /she isnt sure of?
To be honest, I think something is amiss with your repairer and parts. You havnt mentioned how many kms for replacement or time?
These faults are not matter of mystery anymore, even for the home repairer, so for a dealer to be playing this game is a joke.
Somethings very wrong here to be doing these things again.
Where is the warranty on repairs?
It is not unreasonable for the repairs you mentioned to carry through till the end of the vehicles usable life. By usable life I would suggest 350 to 400kms
cheers
Thanks for your comments mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by strangy
Hi mate,
Re: the shuttle valve switch. Make sure it is tested before you change it out. Not just presenting as suspect via the diagnostics equipment. There have been a few instances of changing without testing and the fault reappear within days or hours after the job.
I realise you may not have the equipment to do this yourself, but if you have the procedure printed (from the good oil) out you may be able to watch your repairer do it. Your repairer should do this test anyway after changing out the switch. Its only 5 minutes with a multimeter.
As for rest of it, my goodness, timing couldnt be worse.
All the best with it.
Cheers
Thanks for your tips Strangy.