warning light issue

What Urban Panzer said X3........IF........

The phrase "bypassing completely" means to bypass the dodgy connections inside the abs modulator, and leaving the two shuttle valve switches still in circuit to do the job they were designed to do. (The shuttle valve switch assembly consists of two switches and four resistors as one replaceable unit that monitors the correct operation of the shuttle valves)

My abs modulator suffered from intermittent "Three Amigos" with a corresponding "shuttle valve fault" message.

The modulator was removed, and the shuttle valve switch assembly wiring modified to run the two wires externally to the modulator connector.
One lead to an external earth, and the other to the wire connected to pin number 9. (yellow with a green trace)
An easy job, which leaves the shuttle valve switch assembly intact.

I proved the original fault was the famous dodgy pin internal soldering connection, as opposed to the switches or the modulator being faulty.
Not wanting to dis assemble the modulator further, it was easier to run the wires external.

Yes, I had to "power bleed" the system after refitting....
and I will have to cut and re solder two wires for any further modulator removal.

A small price to pay for no more amigos.

Credit where credit is due....
I did my research on this forum first.
Others have bravely delved into the intricacies of the 3 amigos long before me. There are some well written "how to" instructions.

This would be a good starting point
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...s-arrived.html

Also. I agree with Redback. There has to be some careful fault finding and reading of fault messages before jumping in the deep end.

My bypass was as per option B in the modulator electrical repair fault item in the good oil. That looks to be the procedure Dirtdodger is referring to with an external earth & external connection to the yellowgreen wire. But it did not involve any bleeding as just the svs is removed.
Discolaw

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

ok,,,:cool:

so why did LR go to all that effort of installing a connection deep inside the abs??

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Its not LR, it's a Wabco issue as Wabco make the system.

As for the link to the fix, I have it at home. Will put it up tonight for you all.

Cheers

Andrew

doesnt really matter who---:angel:

why is the question

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Redback

You have to have it checked on a diagnostic tool, either from someone with a Nanocom or your local Landy specialist (not a dealer)

Then go from there, could only be a wheel sensor, also they tend to be more frequent when brake pads and rotors are ready to be replaced too.

The shuttle valve is not as common a fault as the wheel sensors and it will show as a fault if it is buggered.

Baz.

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I'm unable to take my Disco to a LR dealer as LR in their wisdom closed all of my local country dealers down, my closest dealer is now a 600km return trip. I should be able to track a scanner down somewhere.

Link to ABS repair HERE

There are two options of repair. The first is by far the easiest and can be completed providing the tracks on the board aren't damaged.

A word of warning, as the PCB holes aren't plated through, too much heat on the solder pad can cause it to lift off the PCB base and you will never get it back down.

Its best to lightly scratch back the insulation coating along the track from the solder pad and allow the solder to flow backwards up the track. This will also strengthen the area and provide a much better contact to boot.

Another option is to "track repair" with wire available from Dick Smith and other electronic service outlets. This is simply a fine copper wire that can be laid down over a broken PCB track with solder. By also wrapping it around the post, it will keep direct contact with the track should the solder pad joint go dry.

For those a little more adventurous, the second option re wiring the whole thing is pretty solid and if you cockup option A, you have a second chance!

Cheers

Andrew

P.S, added some pdf docs!

I need one of our expert members to help me out here. I seem to have banished my amigoes by following option B which seems to be the easiest fix to do for a non expert like me. Others seem to going for the other options in the V.I. link which (to me) look more complicated. Is it that because option B just bypasses the problem while the other options try to fix it?
Cheers
Discolaw

Quote:

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Originally Posted by discolaw

I need one of our expert members to help me out here. I seem to have banished my amigoes by following option B which seems to be the easiest fix to do for a non expert like me. Others seem to going for the other options in the V.I. link which (to me) look more complicated. Is it that because option B just bypasses the problem while the other options try to fix it?
Cheers
Discolaw

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If you followed option B in the VI link correctly.......

You still have the monitoring system for the shuttle valves intact.
Electrically, the system is the same.
The difference is that the connections from monitoring switches to the ABS modulator plug have been re routed to bypass the trouble prone printed circuit connection inside the modulator.

The ABS computer still has the shuttle valve monitoring system to warn of a fault.

Whether option A or B is followed, as long as the switches remain in circuit, the ABS monitoring is intact.

My personal preference is for option B, as it removes the possibility of further printed circuit failure.......and it's easier.

You are correct in thinking that option B bypasses the problem of the dodgy printed circuit connection and option A "fixes" the dodgy connection.